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Best brake bleeder 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated January 1, 2020
Best brake bleeder of 2018
Here are my top picks with detailed reviews, comparison charts and buying guides to help you purchase the perfect item for your needs. Below you can find 3 reviews of the best brake bleeder to buy in 2018, which I have picked after the deep market research.
The above tidbits will bring you closer to selecting brake bleeder that best serves your needs and as per your budget. After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this brake bleeder win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I was completely satisfied with the price. Its counterparts in this price range are way worse. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
№2 – Hand Held Vacuum Pump Tester Set Vacuum Gauge and Brake Bleeder Kit for Automotive with Adapters
Why did this brake bleeder come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office.
№3 – HFS
Why did this brake bleeder take third place?
We are very pleased with the purchase — the product is great! It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. This price is appropriate since the product is very well built.
brake bleeder Buyer’s Guide
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Most new SRAM disc brakes are designed with a specific bleed port in the caliper to be used with a Bleeding Edge tool. The idea is to reduce the amount of fuss and mess when carrying out a successful brake bleed.
Fit lever bleed tool and Bleeding Edge tool to syringes. Add small amount of DOT 5.brake fluid to caliper syringe. Fill lever syringe ¾ full of brake fluid and close syringe clamp.
Top tip: When filling syringes, make sure the tube end is fully submerged in oil to prevent any air bubbles entering.
Adjust brake lever position so the tip of the lever is 75-80mm from the centre line of the handlebar.
Remove lever bleed port screw using Torx Tand place to one side. Wipe away any oil that may spill out. Thread and nip tight the ¾ full lever syringe into lever bleed port.
Remove rubber caliper bleed plug by hand. Insert Bleeding Edge tool in to hole, and push in until you feel and hear a snap.
Turn bleeding edge tool one turn anti-clockwise to open system.
Open lever syringe clamp, then holding vertically, gently push plunger down to insert all oil and stop before air enters system.
Hold caliper syringe vertically. Push up on the lever syringe to draw fluid back up from the caliper syringe. Stop before air enters system at the caliper.
Turn bleeding edge tool clockwise until it stops to close system.
Depress brake lever blade and release. Pull on lever syringe to create a vacuum, then press down on syringe to pressurise system. Repeat until minimal bubbles are visible in lever syringe tube.
Top tip: If the oil exiting the system is dark and dirty, then you should repeat the bleed process until the oil in the system is clear.
1Press on lever syringe plunger, then release and close syringe tube clamp. Now remove lever syringe and refit bleed port screw being careful of spilling fluid. Tighten to 1.5-1.7Nm using TTorx.
1Remove caliper syringe by pulling on the Bleeding Edge tool; don’t turn the tool. Refit rubber bleed port screw.
1Clean lever and caliper with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to ensure all excess oil is removed.
This water is in the form of moisture in the air.
Moisture in your braking system is very dangerous, as water boils faster than brake fluid and can lead to serious problems with the braking performance of your bike.
It can also corrode parts of your brake system, including fittings, pistons and the master cylinder.
Using the Actron Vacuum Pump Kit
The complete kit consists of the hand pump, two hoses and a container to hold the used brake fluid.
The container has a screw-on top which is airtight once sealed; the top has two nipples on it, one is for the hose that goes to the pump and the other is for the hose that goes to the bleed fitting.
First Remove Old Fluid
Use an old turkey baster to suck out most of the old brake fluid in the master cylinder, and you can use a clean paper towel to wipe out any sediment.
I also set the top back on the master cylinder, just to make sure no dirt or dust find there way in there.
No matter what make or model your vehicle, there are a few things to keep in mind before attempting to change your brake fluid.
Only use recommended brake fluid. The wrong fluid could damage your vehicle’s brake system. Consult your owner’s manual for guidance.
Do not use brake fluid if the container seal is broken. Dirt, water or other contaminants can result in brake system damage or failure.
Wear gloves and protective eyewear. Brake fluid is toxic and should not touch your skin or eyes.
Acceptable fluid level is between the minimum and maximum line. Replace brake fluid if it is below the minimum line to prevent brake system damage.
Such tools would include a funnel for the brake reservoir, nitrile or latex gloves to protect your hands, and of course, a bottle of brake fluid. Most vehicles take DOT-brake fluid.
The amount of brake fluid you buy depends on how much work you want to do. If you want to flush and replace the brake fluid, go for the larger brake fluid bottle.
Another one-person operation is a vacuum bleeder. In the store, a vacuum pump with hoses and attachments is the kit you want.
The thing to look for on a vacuum bleeder is the pump pistol and a reservoir that sits just before it.
The tool sucks brake fluid out of the lines and into the reservoir until the air bubbles are clear.
Another popular one-man method is the brake pressure bleeder. When looking for this tool, consider a kit with a large gallon jug and accompanying hoses and nozzle fittings.
A good thing to find on a pressure pump is a gauge that measures the pressure the user produces by pumping the handle on top of the jug.
Also check to make sure the unit attaches to the brake reservoir under the hood of the car. Because this is a one-man bleeding operation, make sure the kit includes a reservoir to catch the brake fluid beneath the caliper.
Look for a reservoir with a wire hook or someway to hang it from the brake unit at the wheel. Like the earlier methods, this system uses hoses and pressure to remove brake fluid. It applies pressure at the reservoir to force the bubbles out the calipers.
You must have another person behind the wheel who can depress the brake pedal and release it during the operation.
With another person to help, you are free to buy this simple, inexpensive kit. It has a single bottle and a brake bleeding hose.
It comes with and without nipples for the brake caliper; the hose fits over the caliper nicely. This is a great budget tool. Find it next to other brake bleeder tools at the auto shop.
Cost will play into the picture, also. If you’re changing the brakes on your main car, you probably don’t need to shell out a pretty penny for an extravagant bleeder kit. However, if you’re clearing the air out of the lines of your weekend racer, then you may want to spend the extra money.
How to Avoid
There are two types of brake fluid used in mountain bike brakes today. DOT fluid and mineral oil.
Which one you use is not up for discussion, you should only use the fluid your brake was designed to use.
Changes in brake ‘feel’ and characteristic. e.g. brake may become sluggish and less responsive.
Damage to internal seals through corrosion and/or swelling.
Separation and pooling of brake fluid inside brake lines due to DOT fluid/Mineral oil incompatibility.
If you check your workshop shelf, you probably have a bottle of brake fluid from the parts store sitting there that’s a good year or two old from your last brake project. Is that brake fluid any good? It all depends upon how well sealed the bottle is, but we prefer to not take chances and use new, unopened bottles with every project. While we’re looking at brake fluid, have you looked at the fluid in your master cylinder lately? Just because it isn’t clear doesn’t mean it’s bad. Brake fluid can turn dark from brake hose rubber dye and assembly lubes, and while moisture is a concern, the real issue with brake fluid failure is copper corrosion. This copper residue is what ruins seals and ABS hardware. You can easily test your brake fluid with BrakeStrip test strips. It’s a simple package of test strips and a rating chart. Dip the test strip in your master cylinder and after 60 seconds compare it to the chart. On the ‘1Mustang GT we tested, the brake fluid spec’d out fine, but what about yours? Lastly, and this is another simple product that’s great for someone who’s working on their brake system for the first time, there’s BrakeStrip ID. The BrakeStrip ID product is a similar test that will help you determine what type of brake fluid is in your system. This way you can top off, or refill with the same DOT fluid type.
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1While getting all the air out of your brakes’ hydraulic system is key to a firm pedal and proper brake operation, if you have issues elsewhere no amount of bleeding is going to fix it. You can check your brake system from end to end with a diagnostic kit like this one from Master Power Brakes. The kit includes a master cylinder to brake-booster depth gauge, a vacuum gauge for reading vacuum, a pressure gauge with adapters to check fluid pressure at the master cylinder and wheel cylinders/calipers, and a fluid injector for bench bleeding. We’ve used every part in this kit and, for the investment, it saves time and takes the guesswork out of just throwing brake parts on and hoping it fixes the problem.
Setting up the brakes
These brakes use “Bleeding Edge Technology”, that is the name SRAM gives to its system for bleeding brakes. It is bleeding brilliant! The Level Ultimate and TLM version come with the full bleed kit included.
SRAM have cleverly added a concave and convex washer system, similar to what you see on caliper brake blocks; which allows for any imperfections in frame alignment. Again, it makes set-up quick and simple.
I have been lucky enough to have been testing the new Level Ultimate brake for the last month, and on-trend I have fitted it to the new Felt Decree FRD 140mm trail bike; a bike that came with the big brother SRAM Guide Ultimate brakes, so provided a perfect cross-comparison opportunity.
I have ridden the Level through a wide variety of terrain; most of it in wet, muddy conditions. From Swinley Forest, to my local trails; specifically searching for the steepest technical descents to test the control.
Performing the Work
The first thing you need to do is empty the old fluid out of your Master Cylinder Reservoir. I used the hand pump to remove the fluid. If you use another tool you must make sure that it is new, clean and has never been used for petroleum products. A small meat injector or baster at a dollar store could work but never use it for petroleum products or it could contaminate your brake system and cause a burst of your seals.
Make note of the amount of fluid that you have removed. My hand pump canister has a level on it showing how much was removed and I need this number later when sucking fluid out at the brake bleeder because you never want the master cylinder to go dry. My indicator shows 80 ml was removed so when bleeding I will not remove more then 70ml at the brake bleeder.
Once you have removed the fluid there is likely to be some residue / gunk remaining so clean that with a clean lint free paper towel and possibly a qtip. Make sure not to leave fibers in the reservoir.
Refill the Master Cylinder Reservoir as high as you can above the top fill mark and replace the cap.
You will need to continually refill the reservoir as you bleed and flush each brake.
Guide RS Brake Details The Guide brake features an entirely new top end that’s said to offer better consistency and an easier and more effective bleeding process, all without losing any of the modulation that the company is known for.
Setup and Ergonomics
Despite never needing to bleed a set of Guide brakes on any of our test bikes, we went through the process just to see if the still very involved procedure was more effective than in the past. The steps haven’t changed, meaning you’ll need two syringes to get ‘er done, and the same bleed fittings that Avid’s brakes require also work with the Guides. The job is quicker, however, because you only need to do it once to remove the air in the system and replace the DOT fluid. That’s a big improvement over the older Avid brakes that often required the patience of a saint in order to do complete the job.
I’ve never felt that Avid’s brakes don’t offer enough power for their intended use, but I also know that there are bigger anchors out there if you’re looking for something with the stopping power of a brick wall. That hasn’t been the case for everyone, but, at 170lb and expert-level skills, I never found myself wishing for more bite. This begs the question: is the right amount of power an acceptable thing to be okay with, or should you have more than you need for those times when you’re doing top to bottom non-stoppers on Whistler’s Original Sin and Joyride? SRAM obviously believes the latter because the Guides are a clear leap ahead in terms of outright power. Maybe not Shimano power, though, but they’re close enough that I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them to Shaq if he asked me what to spec on his Rampage bike. Anyone who complained about a lack of power in the past should be happy with what SRAM have done with the new Guide brake.
It is the core of the brake drum system. Brake shoes have been in use since the first automobile was released. They refer to friction elements that are made out of steel that assumes a curved shape and feature friction coating material on one side. The main benefit of using brake shoes is that the friction material can be refilled. Hence you don’t have to change the whole system.
How Brake Shoes Function
While braking, the shoes bulge outwards against the spinning brake drums connected to the wheel. The kinetic energy of the spinning-wheel is narrowed down and converted to heat or friction, and it stops. Simultaneously the vehicle stops as the kinetic energy dies out.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your brake bleeder wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of brake bleeder
- №1 — Capri Tools Vacuum Brake Bleeder
- №2 — Hand Held Vacuum Pump Tester Set Vacuum Gauge and Brake Bleeder Kit for Automotive with Adapters
- №3 — HFS