Home tools Buyer's Guides from tech enthusiast who loves technology and clever solutions for better living.
Best deer blinds 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated March 1, 2019
Best deer blinds of 2018
After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made. If you’re scouring the market for the best deer blinds, you’d better have the right info before spending your money.
I review the three best deer blinds on the market at the moment. If you get well acquainted with these basics, you shouldn’t have a problem choosing a deer blinds that suits your need.
Test Results and Ratings
Why did this deer blinds win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
Why did this deer blinds come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this deer blinds take third place?
This price is appropriate since the product is very well built. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I hope that the good reputation of the manufacturer will guarantee a long-term work. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.
deer blinds Buyer’s Guide
None with me
This model has accomplished a massive popularity due to its quality of construction and numerous useful features and accessories. The hunters simply love it because of its strong design and nature. It makes sure fast and easy setup and provides ample room inside for persons. It offers plenty height if you prefer standing shots.
Deer hunting blinds
These are the most common types of blinds. They are designed to blend in with the forest landscape enabling you to easily deer hunt. They come in various models with differing portability, sizes, weights, room, and shooting capabilities.
The Camouflage Factor
As the hunting season approaches I’m sure you have some hunting ground in mind.
Having an idea of the foliage will direct you into choosing a blind camo pattern that will sufficiently blend in with the surrounding foliage.
This should be another ideal starting point for your blind choice.
Blind Setup and Takedown process
The earlier blind versions had major lags when it came to setting up and taking them down while in the field.
With modern innovations incorporated into blind designs, blinds with easier set up and takedown processes are flooding into the market.
These models have popup-and-setup features, enabling you to easily set it up and take it down. This is an efficient feature since it allows you to change hunting spots easily and as frequently as you’d like.
No matter whether you are deer hunting, duck hunting or going after big game, there are a number of different tricks you should familiarize yourself with. Any of the tips described below could mean a far more successful hunt.
Each of the tips that have been pointed above deserve a little more attention and explanation so we have expanded a little further on the detail below.
Start in the Pre-Season
Doing your homework before hunting season is going to pay big dividends later. Placing your blind at the edge of a wide open field is very unlikely to be an effective strategy.
Scouting the land where the deer live will allow you to understand the travel corridors they favor as they move between feeding and bedding areas. If you can find yourself a spot that can be well blended where the mature deer frequent to set up your blind in the coming season you are well on the way to success.
Remember that habits can change from one season to the next as food sources change or predators move around. Get to know the movements and habits of the deer in the area, either firsthand or with the use of a trail camera or two.
Set Up Early
Don’t think you’re fooling the whitetail when you place your blind in its new spot. They know there is something foreign in their territory and they’re going to avoid it while it is new.
At the very least try to put your blind in place a couple of weeks before you plan on using it. Give the deer time to become used to the new object and the smells that go with it.
If you absolutely can’t go in ahead of time, try your best to blend it in with the surroundings. Well inside the tree line will give you the greatest level of concealment. Good blind placement should still mean the deer will still pass right by the front of the blind.
Positioning is Important
In fact the position of your ground blind is very important. And not just because you need to be in a position where you will get clear access to your deer. There are a number of factors that you should take into consideration when working out where best to place the blind.
It is not a wise choice to face the east. This will mean that you are looking directly into the morning sun. Important pieces of equipment will be affected such as the scope or your range finder. Plus it will be more difficult to see the deer due to poor light levels below the treeline.
Brush In The Blind
When working out the actual position of the blind you should be looking for spots where you can naturally conceal it. Try to make your blind a part of the landscape. This means not only placing the blind in among foliage and undergrowth but also placing as many branches, twigs and leafy material on and around it.
In fact, some ground blinds are designed with strap loops or cords where you can stick small branches or twigs to help make the blind disappear.
Avoid skylining the blind. This is where the outline of the blind can be clearly seen and tend to stand out.
It’s going to take some work but it will definitely be worth it over the longer term.
Prepare Your Blind
From the moment you wake you should be setting up your blind for the day’s hunting ahead. Equipment should already have been set up in the spot where they will be used.
The windows and mesh should be put in the configuration you are expecting to use when hunting. You don’t need to expose yourself with too much light getting into the blind by rolling back the window coverings. But you could slightly open windows that are not facing the trail.
Get your rifle or bow propped and ready and the chair placed and with it, your shooting stick, heater, small table and the like. All of them, along with your pack, should be within easy reaching distance to where you are waiting.
Ensure Wide Field of View
A mistake that is common when using a ground blind is the hunter sets up in a position that offers limited visibility and only a single shooting lane.
You don’t want to be in a position where you are surprised by the sudden appearance of a deer that is then gone before you have time to pick up your rifle or bow.
Ensure that your blind site will allow you to see a deer moving along a trail for a period of time before it comes time to take action. This will give you time to identify shooting lanes and check out the deer before shooting.
Make the Blind Scent Free
Don’t forget that the material of the blind has the capability of holding the scent of its surroundings. This means that if the blind has been stored away in the home for ten months it is going to come out smelling of the home.
One of your preparatory steps before you place the blind is to make it scent-free. Do this by spraying it with a scent-eliminating spray.
Once the blind has been given a good spray it still needs to be aired out to help any mustiness and other odors to dissipate. Leaving the blind out for a couple of weeks before it is going to be used is going to play a big part in ridding it of human scent.
Stay Invisible Inside the Blind
One of the most crucial tips you want to take notice of is to do everything you possibly can to remain unseen whilst inside the blind.
It is for this reason that you should buy a ground blind that has a matte black finish. By wearing black clothing when inside the blind and minimizing movement you should remain unseen.
When you move your movements should be slow and measured. Most of the windows should be closed to maintain the darkness inside.
With a black interior, black clothing and little or no movement inside the blind you stand a much better chance of not being seen by a deer.
What To Look For In A Ground Blind
Ground blinds are not made the same. They are designed to meet specific hunting needs depending on what you are hunting – deer or waterfowl, for example. The type of blind you need may also be determined by your choice of weapon – rifle or bow.
The hub design has quickly grown in popularity because they are quick to set up and take down. They are also light but still rigidly constructed and are available in a number of different configurations.
You really want to get a blind that has a matte black finish on the interior walls. This, in combination with black clothing, will give you a far greater chance of being unseen while inside the blind.
Brushing in is strongly recommended and the better ground blinds will come with loops and straps that will allow you to tuck branches and foliage to aid camouflage.
Multiple windows is also a big factor and front windows that offer a wide field of view will be the most useful design. They should all be able to be covered over and being able to deploy the shades single-handedly and silently should be another feature to look for.
If you are a bowhunter your requirements are going to be a little different to the rifle hunter. The size of the blind is going to be an important consideration because you will need to be able to stand and have the room to draw the bow without making a sound. The Primos Hunting Double Bull Deluxe Ground Blind provides you with the perfect amount of room for bowhunting.
For some people comfort is a key consideration and whether or not the blind is waterproof is a an important factor. A waterproof ground blind is going to cost a little more but for if you are going to be spending many hours sitting and waiting, the fact that your blind will protect you completely from the elements will make the difference between buying one over the other.
Popular Ground Blind Brands
To give you a head start on where to start looking for some of the more popular ground blinds currently available in the market we have given you a list to look through. To find out more about each company, including the ground blinds that are currently available, simply click on the company name.
This is a specialist ground blinds company and they do it very well. When a company confines itself to perfecting a particular type of product you can be confident that the results will be extremely reliable. It is definitely advisable to check out the Barronett Blinds website when trying to decide on a quality ground blind.
Big Game Treestands
Better known for their treestands, Big Game also produces a small selection of lower priced ground blinds. They are very good quality blinds and offer a selection of sizes to the hunter from a larger two person down to a small single person option.
Primos is another company that produces a large range of hunting accessories and could be the brand that will cover just about all of the hunter’s needs. Ground blinds is a part of that range of products and the needs of the serious hunter are well catered for by the range offered here.
Layout Blinds For Waterfowl Hunting
Blinds for waterfowl hunting such as ducks and geese are essentially different to other blinds such as those used for deer because you need a clear view of the sky. Known as Layout blinds, rather than looking like a little hut, as do bigger game blinds, the better duck blinds are watertight shelters that allow you to recline.
Displayed above is a typical layout blind, although this is the Gunner Field Duck Blind produced by Beavertail and has been designed with an ergonomic seat that springs up into the upright position to help you to quickly get into a shooting position.
Many of the locations that you will be hunting from will be water based and your blind may be sitting in a few inches of water. A good duck blind will handle this without a problem and will allow you to be comfortable while doing so. They provide warmth for the long wait and padded comfort so you don’t find yourself stiff and sore the next day.
The ability to make calls is another aspect that the blind must be capable of allowing and this means the top must be able to open silently and easily.
Also, look for a blind that offers plenty of storage that can be accessed without having to contort the body to reach it.
We have put together a guide to the 1Best Layout Blinds of 201where you will find blinds that cover the various different types of duck or goose hunting situations.
Are you looking for instructions on how to build a hunting blind? If yes, then you’ve come to the right page. Read further below for a DIY guide on how to build a ground hunting blind. Nothing fancy but it’ll cover the basics on how to build one that’s sturdy and can last a couple seasons.
Lay sheet of the 4xPlywood on the ground and this will act as a guide for the rectangular floor frame. Now lay the feet 2xlumber, one for each of the longer sides. On each shorter sides, lay one of feet 2x4s, forming a rectangular frame. Nail this frame together but don’t attach it to the plywood yet.
Inside the frame, attach pieces of the feet 2x4s, laying each a feet off from each other. You’ll need to cut a couple inches on each of these to be able to fit them inside the rectangular frame. Then attach this frame to the Plywood floor.
Step Install the Roof
Remember that the roof has to be inclined at an angle so that if it rains, the water will fall on one side. To create that incline, make one of the wider walls lower about a few inches compared to the wall parallel to it.
If you’re only planning to windows on one or two sides only and have one closed wall, make sure that the roof is tilted to this wall or the back. This way the water will pour on this side. But since we’re building a deer blind where we’ll have windows on all three sides, it doesn’t really matter which side it’s tilted.
Do NOT cut the tin sheet in the exact size of the frame. Make sure to extend it about a foot off on each side of the walls to get that roof overhang.
Attach the tin sheet on the top frame and remember to overlap each connecting side to avoid leaks during rainy days.
You Need to Uncock It
Theoretically, once cocked, crossbows could remain locked into firing position indefinitely. It is not unusual for some hunters to leave their crossbows cocked for days, even weeks. Bad idea. Leaving a crossbow cocked for extended periods of time increases stress on the limbs, strings, cables and trigger mechanism and shortens the life of all these components. It is best to fire the bow at the end of each day’s hunt. The easiest way to do this while hunting is to carry a practice arrow with a field point and release the bow into soft ground when the day is done.
Keep in mind, too, most states and provinces have regulations stipulating when a bow is considered loaded or when and where crossbows must be uncocked, such as at the close of legal hunting hours or in a vehicle, for example. Whatever the case, releasing and reloading is the best medicine for long crossbow life.
They Can Withstand the Elements
During normal hunting conditions, properly maintained crossbows will get the job done in heat, cold or adverse weather.
Maintenance is a Must
They’re not just words, but words to live by. Regular maintenance plays a major roll in the overall performance, accuracy, effectiveness and life of a crossbow. The owner’s manual that comes with every crossbow will be the best guide here, but under normal use cables and strings should be replaced every three years or so — sooner if needed.
Through time, strings and cable stretch, including steel cables, resulting in lower draw weight. This will affect arrow speed, range, trajectory and energy. Rails should be lubed with a high quality lube according to manufacturer’s recommendation, and it is a good idea to wax strings, except the center serving, at the same time. Both will ensure longer string life. It is not unusual for quality strings to last 150 shots if not more, but lubing and waxing is the key.
From time to time, crossbows might require adjusting, or tuning, especially the braced height (the distance between a braced string and underside side of the riser measured from the string’s center) and the tiller, the balance between the two limbs, which should be equal in pull length and weight. If a crossbow consistently shoots high or low, or if arrows show wear marks on the shaft from the rail, the problem might be improper brace height, or the bow is out of till.
You Need to Cock it Properly
This cannot be overemphasized. Most crossbow accuracy problems are caused by an improperly cocked bow. This is especially true with new bows and novice shooters (and when cocking by hand).
Other factors contribute to poor or unreliable accuracy but — before those are considered — concentrating and developing a proper cocking technique will generally cure the problem. To achieve accurate and consistent arrow flight, the string must be drawn and locked into position with an equal length of serving on each side of the rail. If not, the arrow is released with an uneven amount of energy, resulting in inconsistent downrange groups. As little as ⅛-inch can make the difference between hitting and missing the vitals on a deer at 2yards.
If cocking by hand, the problem is easily remedied by indexing or marking the server with a permanent marker on each side of the rail when the bow is at rest. When the bow is drawn and locked, the index marks should be in the same position on each side of the rail. Cocking ropes also help keep the serving properly aligned while reducing the draw weight by as much as 50 percent and are one of the most beneficial and helpful crossbows aides to invest in.
Real-Life Practice is Important
After sighting in with a field tip, changing to a hunting head will tell us whether adjustments have to be made. Some will be minor tweaks; others will be more complicated. It is best to make those corrections before hitting the deer woods. Also, keep in mind that crossbow arrows lose speed and drop quickly. If you will be hunting from elevated stands, practice shots from the same height.
You Need to Keep it Simple
You needn’t give up your day job to crack the code for obtaining optimum crossbow accuracy and performance. Some folks would want you believe that it is an incredibly delicate science. It’s not.
All the hard work is done. Our job is to understand the crossbow and its limitations. We should not expect the crossbow to do more than it was intended — and that is simply to be a reliable hunting companion. — Al Raychard is a crossbow hunting expert from Maine.
Bushnell Bear Grylls x 42mm
I’ll admit these look a little tacky with the orange accent, and the Bear Grylls logo plastered on the side. But the Bushnell Bear Grylls x 42mm Roof Prism Waterproof/Fogproof Binoculars pack a serious punch.
I can only imagine that Bear Grylls is getting a nice paycheck for the use of his name. At the same time, his stamp of approval is a big thing for any outdoors product.
You definitely don’t want glasses fogging up when you spot that trophy white tail ambling by. And much less do you want your bins to take on water when looking for waterfowl. This is where these BG’s perform well. You will have a clear image of your target at all times, and won’t have to worry about missing your shot because of fog or water.
Perfect for: Younger hunters who like survival shows on tv (and who won’t mind the bright orange colours).
Set Up and Inspect Your Treestand
A treestand is a useful tool for harvesting deer. There is a variety of treestands for your selection: hang-ons, climbers, ladder stands and tripods. We do NOT recommend building your own treestand and we very sternly advise that you NOT use a treestand that someone else set up, especially a homemade stand.
Make certain that your treestand is current and has the approval of TMA (Treestand Manufacturers Association). Never use a treestand that belongs to another hunter.
Always wear a full body harness when using a treestand, use a haul line to bring up your unloaded firearm, and maintain three points of contact whenever climbing up and down. Follow the instructions from the treestand manufacturer for correct use. Treestand falls may result in serious injury and death.
Practice using your treestand at home on a tree in the backyard and begin with it mounted at two to three feet.
Sight In Rifle
The rifle is your chosen tool for hunting deer. Know your rifle. Just because it was right on target last year does not mean that when you take it out of storage for this season it is properly sighted in.
Take time to go to a shooting range to practice well ahead of opening day. Whether you’re using open or telescopic sights: start out the day at the range as though you had a brand new rifle.
It is suggested that the new deer hunter refer back to their hunter safety course for details on how to sight in their deer-hunting rifle.
Important Binocular Features
Anyone who spends a lot of time outdoors should invest in a good pair of binoculars; however, shopping for them can be a confusing experience to the uninformed. To understand how to buy binoculars for hunting, you need to understand the basics of how to read binocular specs.
In this video, Ben and Diane of Eagle Optics, do a great job demonstrating the differences between magnifications. Watch the video below, and think about how you like to hunt, I think it will help make sense of which power to choose when buying your new binoculars.
8x Magnification – Wider field of view, collect more light for a brighter image, usually more compact and light weight.
10x Magnification – Much closer view of your target, but sacrifice field of view, some steadiness, and some brightness.
This is the second number in a binocular specification. When you a see a binocular marked as 10×42, this simply means that the objective lens is 42mm in diameter. The objective then focuses that light into the prisms, which flip the image right side up, and into the magnifying lens near your eyes.
The larger the objective diameter is, the more light that is gathered from the field of view. So a 10×50 binocular will produce a brighter image than a 10×42.
As you move up in objective power, you also move up in price and size. 42mm is by far the most common size objective, as consumers have found it to be an ideal size with good performance and maintaining a compact overall size.
Field of View
The FOV is determined by the binoculars’ optical design. This is the width of picture you can see with the binoculars at a specified distance (usually 1,000 feet). Pay attention to this number, as better binoculars will many times have a slightly larger field of view.
Prisms are extremely important in a pair of binoculars because they are what allow you to see the image right side up through the eye pieces. Look for binos with prisms made from BaK-glass. BaK-is an optically superior glass compared to the BK-that you will find in the cheapo units.
There are two types of prisms used in most binoculars today, porro prism, and roof prisms.
Roof prisms have become the industry norm, due to their compactness. Roof prisms allow for the objective lens to be aligned directly with the eyepiece, allowing for straight optical tubes that can fold up into a more compact size.
Porro prisms are arranged in a z-shape, meaning the objective lens and ocular lens do not line up, and requires an offset and boxy shape for the optical tubes. Porro prisms normally provide brighter images than roof prism, due to the fact roof prisms use silvered finished, and the result is an approximate 12% reduction in transmission of light.
So why do most binoculars use roof prisms if they tend to have inferior optics? Consumers demanded a more compact design, and the manufacturers have in turn spent most of their efforts on those designs. There are exceptions, like the Leica Geovid HD-B rangefinder binos, but those are an extremely premium piece of equipment.
Lens Coatings and Their Function
Lens coatings are a vital part of any pair of binoculars. They assist in the transmission of light, as well as cut down on glare, and other optical phenomena.
Coated: A single layer of anti-reflection coating, usually only on the objective and magnification lenses.
Multi-Coated: Some lens surfaces will be coated multiple times.
Fully Coated: All lens surfaces touched by the air have a coating.
Full Multi-Coated: All lens surfaces will have multiple anti-reflection coatings.
You can probably already guess that you want either fully coated or fully multi-coated lenses on your binoculars.
Collimation is just a fancy word meaning optical alignment. A well collimated binocular will have the lenses optical axis aligned together with high precision. Lenses that are out of collimation will result in poor performance and a nice headache for the hunter.
The other factor is the pivot points between the two optical tubes. These pivot points form the bridge of the binoculars, and must also be aligned precisely for your eyes to see properly and effortlessly.
As you would expect, it takes costly instruments to achieve this, meaning the higher quality binoculars will have well collimated optics, and the cheap-o pairs will seldom meet that goal.
Exit pupil is determined by the magnification and the diameter of the objective lens. Diameter of the exit pupil will give the amount of light that reaches your eye. You calculate the exit pupil by dividing the objective (second number) by the magnification (first number).
For hunters, they need to think about how and where they usually hunt. If you spend most of your time in low light conditions, then you will want to purchase either 8×4or 10×50 binoculars for the best light transmission. Hunters in open spaces and daylight conditions can more easily get away with a smaller exit pupil on a 10×4because there is simply a greater amount of light available for transmission.
Twilight Factor is a subjective specification, and is somewhat useful to hunters, as it is supposed to be determined by how much you will be able to see in a dawn or dusk situation. The larger the twilight factor, the brighter that binocular is supposed to be at sunrise and sunset.
It all started when I was hunting and had trouble remaining undetected, no matter what I did. I tried staying on elevated stands, hunting on a boat, or even spraying my clothes with odor repellant. But even if I did all those and experimented with strategy and planned, I always ended up getting caught and the game running away from me before I could take my shot.
The hunting blind was able to keep me out of sight and smell but without the difficulty of targeting and shooting. It was one of the best investments I made for hunting, besides my weapons of course. Now, I’m able to take my target and capture game easier and without the hassle of keeping quiet and away from sight. I can focus more so on my shooting technique, and I have never had this much successful hunts compared to having no hunting blind.
Barronett Blinds Big Cat 350 Hub Hunting Blind
What’s incredible about this Barronett Blinds hunting blind is that it provides the ultimate concealment for up to three hunters, with plenty of room for gear. It’s easy to set up and take down, and its design can blend in almost everywhere. It has the simple instruction that takes only one person to use and set up. I would recommend it for its huge space, easy setup, and quality material that keeps it quiet and undetected. It will hold up and last for multiple seasons to come, perfect for any hunter (or hunters!).
Durable and Resilient
What I appreciate about Ameristep is its quality material they put into making their hunting blinds. It has the durashell plus material with a shadow guard that keeps me out of sight but with the ability to see through (without any game seeing me). It’s built to last for a long time, with its waterproof shell and the insect-resistant feature that reduces the risk of pests biting or ruining the blind. Though it can only fit up to two people, it has enough room for extra gear and the accessibility one needs for staying out of sight.
The Dark and Unnoticeable
If you want something that gives you the full front-view and the silent window closures when slid, then Primos Double Bull Deluxe is just rich for you. It allows you to show 180 degrees and offers a floor space wide enough to move around in. It’s also nice for tall people as well. The huge door is easy to access, and it’s zipperless, making it quiet and effortless to stay in and leave. This blind has got the superior quality construction built to last no matter where you go. With its new and advanced features, it’s a must try for any hunter.
You Are Protected
Not only are you out of sight from your game, but predators as well. You are also protected from inclement weather, such as rain or the cold. They are also safer to use than elevated stands, as you are on the ground and without the risk of falling or wasting time setting it up.
How to Use a Hunting Blind
Avoid moving the blind around too much. Also, since deer can see through a blind, wear black and shut the windows so they can only see black and nothing else, if they get curious to peer into it.
The first step is just finding a public parcel to hunt. Fortunately, that’s one of the easier tasks in the process. Most state game agencies offer a section on their website dedicated to helping hunters find publicly accessible lands. Some are traditional publicly-owned parcels, while others may be privately-owned but open to public hunting through special programs or agreements with state game agencies.
Don’t overlook lands owned by local units of government – counties, cities and, in some states, school districts. Many of these lands offer public hunting and are less pressured simply because they’re not as well-known.
When it comes to public hunting lands, there are generally three types of ownership: federal, state and local.
Federal. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management and U.S. Army Corps of Engineers manage millions of acres of land owned by the people of the United States, and much of it is open to public hunting.
State. Most states own some amount of public land, usually in the form of state forests or Wildlife Management Areas. Again, the majority of these lands are open to, and even managed for, public hunting.
The key to successfully hunting public lands is to determine from the outset what you’re after. Of course, whitetails have to live in the area. That’s a prerequisite regardless. But if you’re specifically looking to tag a big, old buck, you are usually going to seek out areas that are more remote and difficult to access. But if you simply want to spend a few days in the woods and have a reasonable expectation of killing a deer, you usually have more options. Here’s how to narrow things down.
Secret Spots. Many locally-owned lands and private lands with public hunting arrangements will not be featured on maps or GPS units. In a way, that’s part of their appeal. To find them, you must find them. And that will eliminate a lot of the pressure usually associated with public land hunting. Start by contacting local units of government, and they should be able to get you started.
Here are some tips to consider
Trim the Weight. Foot access is usually the only means of transportation on public lands. And that means you’re going to need to haul stands, climbing sticks and assorted gear into your location. Plan – and pack – accordingly. Inventory every piece of gear that you intend to take with you. If it’s not absolutely essential, consider leaving it back in the truck. Save weight where you can and your back will thank you for it later.
What About Your Deer? Getting your gear into an area is one thing. Toting a 200-pound whitetail out is quite another. A wheeled game cart can be a life-saver here. Literally. A study conducted by a team of heart specialists in Michigan has shown that hunting can cause heart rates to skyrocket to dangerous levels – with the act of dragging a deer causing spikes in cardiac activity of lethal rates. Your best option for hauling a deer out of the woods? A team of buddies. Take plenty of breaks, take your time and enjoy the haul.
Identifying Existing Food Sources
Regardless of the time of year – early season, late season, even the rut – a whitetail’s daily movements are dominated by food. While a deer’s dietary requirements and preferences change throughout the season (and sometimes, even by the week), some food sources are standout favorites every fall.
Food sources on a new hunting spot can be basically broken into one of two types: existing and introduced. If you’re scoping out a new farm to buy or lease, or maybe even a public spot you’d like to hunt, identifying the existing food sources will tell you a lot about the current deer-holding potential, and what could potentially be done with food source enhancements.
Natural Browse: You’d think any block of trees would be full of the small bushes, twigs, seeds, berries and leaves that make up the bulk of a whitetail’s daily diet, but you’d be mistaken. Old-growth hardwood forest and dense evergreen canopies shade out the forest floor, preventing that thick understory – and the browse it produces – from growing. Though open ridges with big timber are productive hunting spots at certain times of the year, thick, early successional stuff like clear-cuts and even selectively logged woods provides tons more browse and much better cover.
Mast: Nuts, acorns in particular, are hugely important to a whitetail’s fall diet. And that’s where those big, open stands of hardwood timber can come into play. There are some 60 species of oak in the United States, and deer preferences for their acorns vary too widely by region to cover here. But in general, white oaks are preferred to other oak species because the acorns they produce have lower levels of tannic acid, which give acorns a bitter flavor.
Crops: If you’re scouting an area that has browse, cover and water, you have the basic elements required for whitetail habitat. In the East, most of these areas have at least a few mast-producing trees as well, and this natural, woodland style habitat comprises the bulk of available public hunting areas. But a food source on a potential hunting spot doesn’t have to be “natural” to be pre-existing. And it’s no secret that more whitetails live in farm country. Row crops, namely corn and soybeans, are a huge reason why Midwestern states like Iowa, Illinois, Missouri and Wisconsin have so many deer. The way the in which deer use these crops changes during deer season, since fall is also harvest season, but there’s no question that the presence of row crop agriculture typically makes a huge positive impact on area deer numbers.
Introducing Food Sources
For many of today’s deer hunters, the first thought upon acquiring a new lease or buying a new farm is enhancing the available food supply. Although adding more food sources isn’t universally the answer to getting more deer to use your hunting property (in some situations, creating additional cover can be more effective), it does help in many situations. And there are two basic strategies for doing this: planting food plots or baiting.
Baiting: Where legal, baiting can be a great strategy for getting a shot. First, some ground rules on this polarizing topic. We’re not here to advocate for or against baiting. In many places, hunting deer over bait is illegal. In others, there are laws regarding how close you can set up to bait. And in a few, you can pour out a corn pile, climb a tree 20 yards away and shoot the first deer that walks in, if you so desire. It’s up to you to learn and adhere to the regulations in the area you hunt.
Although apples, feed blends and myriad other goodies are sometimes used for bait, whole shelled corn is the overwhelming favorite. It’s easy to obtain, not overly expensive and whitetails love it. It also works pretty well when used in conjunction with a timed feeder. Such feeders have the advantage of holding substantial amounts of corn secure from the weather for an extended period of time, and limiting how much the deer (and raccoons) are able to eat in a given day. The drawback to them is that it can take months, even a full year, for area deer to become conditioned to them. And even at that, my success at drawing mature bucks in to timed feeders has been limited at best.
Corn poured straight onto the ground, or into a feed-on-demand “gravity feeder” – learn how to make one– is the better bet to start drawing in deer fast, especially older bucks. Deer will often find a corn pile overnight if it’s established in a high-traffic area, and will continue to visit it even a day or two after the last kernels are consumed. A corn pile on the ground is one of the quickest, deadliest ways to get your deer on a small tract of ground that otherwise lacks top food sources. It’s especially effective early and late in the season.
The Pre-rut and Tactics
September turns to October, and things, they are a-changing fast in the whitetail woods. The bachelor groups of bucks that were so predictable just a few weeks ago are now breaking up, and individual bucks are establishing territories for the fall. They mark these territories with rubs and scrapes. Encounters with other bucks now lead to aggressive posturing, and, as the month goes on, violent fighting. Bucks show an increasing interest in does, as they know it’s only a matter of days before the first females are ready to breed.
In addition to deer behavior, food sources are changing. Chilly nights and shorter days are killing off the abundant green browse that was in the woods on opening day. Soybean fields are yellowing and losing their attraction. Acorns are falling. This time of year is considered by many to be the toughest of all to hunt – but it does have its upsides.
How to Hunt: During the pre-rut, deer are in flux. They’ve seen some hunting pressure by this point, so they’re a bit leerier about moving in the open during daylight hours. Bucks know the breeding hasn’t begun yet, and mature animals, especially, are extremely cautious right now. Food sources have changed, with acorns being option No. where they’re available. So hunting the pre-rut often means backing into the timber. Play it safe around the bedding areas, but don’t be shy about setting up in funnels and pinch points between those beds and food sources. And be prepared for some slow days. The best thing about the pre-rut is that the rut is on the way.
The first step in hunting the rut is determining exactly what phase of the rut you’re dealing with. Not all does will be ready to breed at the same time. And this will definitely impact how the bucks you’re hunting behave.
The “seeking and chasing phase” is the phase most hunters closely associate with the rut. Generally speaking, rutting activity will begin trickling in mid-October and gain steam toward the end of the month, hitting a peak somewhere around the second week of November. Much of this activity is actually pre-breeding. Very few does are actually ready to be bred, but there are a few. And that puts bucks into a frenzy. This is when daylight rut activity is most intense and bucks are moving most often.
At some point, usually around mid-November, most does will be available to breed. And the action will decline dramatically as bucks and does disappear into the thickets to breed. This is known as the “lockdown” phase. Bucks will stay with a doe they’re breeding for about 4hours, and will move only when the doe moves.
How to Hunt: Hunting the rut can be incredibly exciting. And incredibly frustrating.
The seeking and chasing phase offers an excellent time to hunt areas with maximum deer movement. Funnels, pinch points and primary food sources are all worthy of attention. All-day sits are very effective this time of year, but that doesn’t mean you have to sit in the same stand all day long.
All-day sits are very effective this time of year, but that doesn’t mean you have to sit in the same stand all day long. Try targeting a prime funnel that deer use to travel from feeding areas to bedding areas in the morning before moving to a stand near a known doe bedding area during the midday hours.
Try targeting a prime funnel that deer use to travel from feeding areas to bedding areas in the morning before moving to a stand near a known doe bedding area during the midday hours. Then, in the afternoon, change locations to a primary food source.
The seeking and chasing phase is the ideal time to employ calling tactics, particularly during the early stages of the phase. With competition for available does high, bucks are far more willing to respond to calling and rattling. Grunt calls mixed with doe bleats can be dynamite. Antler rattling simulates a fight between bucks over a hot doe, and can draw in bucks from long distances. —For more in-depth rut tactics, check out this article.
The Post Rut and Tactics
With the frantic, action-packed days of the rut behind us, we enter the post-rut phase. Often, this period of the deer season is also referred to as the “late” season. In many ways, the tactics and experiences are the same. Deer are finished breeding and winter is impending. They have two things on their minds: Food and safety.
In most areas, the rut will be all but over by the first week of December. And in areas of the upper Midwest, snow will begin falling in late November, and the cold temperatures won’t recede until spring. In those situations, the post-rut period occurs hand-in-hand with true late-season hunting tactics.
In other areas, however, there may be a small window of time in which the deer have put the rut behind them but aren’t yet enduring cold winter temperatures. These post-rut deer can be some of the toughest to hunt.
Following the rut, doe families will begin to reassemble. Does, fawns and button bucks will start to hang out together again, bedding and feeding in the same locations. These deer will also have endured a full season of hunting pressure and will be reluctant to move much in daylight. Bucks will also start to reform into bachelor groups, sometimes hanging out with does and fawns as well.
Scouting is the foundation to consistent deer hunting success. Whether you’re hunting a small 10-acre patch of urban timber or larger expanses of farmland, the effort you assert in understanding your property and how the deer use it will largely determine the outcome of your season.
The First Steps
Ideally, scouting should begin well before the season opener, but for the traveling hunter, this may not be possible. Regardless, the best starting point to understanding your hunting property is with the use of topographical maps and aerial photos. Using these tools allows you to visually see what the property offers, and also provide detailed topography.
Rivers and creeks. These are prime locations for traveling deer. It’s not uncommon to find trails running along their banks, as well as water crossing locations at gradually sloping and shallow water areas.
Travel corridors. A saddle, which is just a low point between two hills, is an easy spot for deer to travel. East-west ridges allow rutting bucks to use prevailing north-south winds to efficiently scent check an area for estrus does. Draws or gullies leading from open fields to bedding areas can be potential travel routes as well.
Fields. Although you may not be able to tell what a field contains from an aerial map, they are often prime feeding areas, and are always worth investigation.
Ground blinds are nothing new for deer hunting, but the modern pop-up style has given life to their popularity. Unlike treestands, you really can’t fall out of a ground blind. And in cold, rainy weather, they provide warmth and keep your bones dry. They are a great option for both bow and gun hunters when hunting fields or other open country. And they are an exceptional choice for introducing fidgety kids to hunting.
Ideally, ground blinds should be set up weeks before the season opener, giving the local deer time to accept them. If that is not an option, using the natural vegetation to brush them in will do a good job of fooling the local population in a pinch. Most of today’s portable ground blinds offer straps or some type of ties for securing brush to their outer shell. You can also cut a hole in the brush and insert the blind, being careful not to have limbs rubbing against the fabric making unwanted noise. You don’t want to skyline the blind on a hill or ridge if at all possible, and to keep deer from noticing movements inside the blind, wear dark clothing and keep as many windows closed as possible to reduce natural light.
Cold Weather Gear
There’s nothing worse than being cold on stand, but with today’s insulated hunting gear Mother Nature’s worst doesn’t have to keep you home. To battle the elements, think layers. Not only does layering do a better job of keeping body heat in and cold out, but when it gets warm, you can always peel some away.
Hot Weather Gear
During early season hunts you’re going to get hot and sweaty. No way around it. With that in mind, consider wearing lightweight clothing that offers scent control qualities. Although this is not foolproof, anything you can do to reduce human scent is always a good option. Clothing that is breathable, stretchable and cool on the body will do an amazing job keeping you cool.
When picking the right pair of boots, comfort, climate and environment are essential elements to consider. Hunting whitetails sometimes requires long days in the field, so having a pair of boots that are comfortable in any situation will keep you on stand longer and increase your odds of killing deer. Because elements can change drastically during the whitetail season, having a couple pairs of boots for the varying conditions might be necessary if you intend to bear the brunt of an entire season. For stationary hunting from a stand or ground blind a quality pair of calf-high rubber boots—insulated or not, weather depending—is an excellent, and popular, option.
When still-hunting, participating in deer drives or hiking long distances in more rugged terrain is involved, choosing a comfortable leather or Cordura boot might be a better option. They offer better all-around support. Non or lightly insulated boots are more breathable on warm hunts, but many styles of lace-up boots have Thinsulate insulation for colder days, as well as Gore-Tex or other water-proofing materials for wet conditions.
Optics for Deer Hunting
Quality optics are essential for deer hunting, and there are three primary types to consider: Binoculars, spotting scopes and rangefinders. Although not all of them are necessary in every hunting situation, each is useful enough to justify owning them all. In the past, deer hunters were forced to choose between cheap optics that were often junk, or high-quality glass that cost a small fortune. Today, there are numerous middle-of-the-road binoculars, rangefinders and spotting scopes that will do the job effectively, but at reasonable prices.
Binoculars are among the most important all-around tools for deer hunting. When shopping for the right binocular, there are many factors to consider and understand. The most important and most basic is the magnification and brightness. Magnification is the optical power the binoculars provide, and the brightness is largely determined by the size of the aperture or objective lens, but lens coatings also play a role. The number on the binoculars describes these configurations.
For example, an 8X4configuration means that the binoculars offer 8-power magnification, or that the object you are looking at appears eight times closer than what you can see with the naked eye. The 4is how many millimeters in diameter the aperture or objective lens is, which largely determines its light-gathering capabilities. This is an important consideration since most hunting situations occur in low-light conditions.
At first thought, many feel having higher magnification is better, but higher magnification decreases the field of view, and they are typically not as bright. For the average whitetail deer hunter, 8X4is an ideal choice in both magnification and brightness.
Look for models that offer “fully multi-coated” lenses. This means that all air-to-glass surfaces have received multiple layers of anti-reflection coatings, which reduce light loss and glare due to reflection. Extra Low Dispersion Glass, or commonly referred to as ED Glass, is typically found on higher end models, and it is well-worth the extra dollars if you spend much time in the woods. This type of glass provides exceptional color correction and sharp images in low light conditions.
Although a spotting scope is not necessary for most whitetail hunting situations, it is an excellent tool for glassing large fields from a distance while scouting, and they’re very handy when hunting for whitetails in open country out west. Most spotting scopes have 50mm to 80mm objective lenses, which gather plenty of light, and magnifications from 15X to 60X optical power. For magnification performance, anything in the 15X to 30X is perfect for whitetails. This will give you plenty of power, as well as a wide field of view. A fully multi-coated lens is a must, and it should be equipped with ED Glass and offer high definition qualities. Quality is key when picking a good spotting scope, so expect to shell out some money to get one that is worthwhile.
Whether you’re slinging arrows from 20 yards or bullets from 200, a laser rangefinder is a game-changing tool for deer hunting. In a nutshell, these devices use an invisible infrared laser beam to reflect off a target, and a computer chip in the unit calculates the time it took for the laser to reflect back to the unit to calculate the distance. This pinpoint accuracy has done worlds to minimize misses and wounding shots on game. And, modern rangefinders are surprisingly affordable and rugged.
One of the newest advancements in rangefinders that’s a must-have for bowhunters is angle-compensating technology. These units have a built-in inclinometer that gives you true horizontal yardage for sharply angled shots.
Some modern rangefinders offer scanning modes, which allow you to pan across the landscape while the button is held and acquire different distance readings. Other read-out modes allow you to filter out brush and clutter than can spoil the reading to your target, and even built-in ballistic modes that help rifle shooters determine holdover amounts for their particular firearm.
So let’s make some sense of the options.
For starters, you’ll need to decide whether you want a camera that uses a traditional flash or some version of LED lighting. For most applications, you’ll want a flash that simply illuminates the deer at night to provide good, clear images after dark. LED units excel here. Most LED units will feature multiple LED bulbs that produce light that’s hard for game or humans to see. The Bushnell TrophyCam HD is an excellent example. However, some units such as the Bushnell Trophy Cam HD MAX also employ red or “black” infrared lights. These allow the camera to provide illumination for the photo without giving off a highly-visible light that may be seen by deer and is definitely visible to other humans who might want to make off with your camera.
That said, standard “white light” flashes have their place. They excel at stopping motion and preventing image blur. So if you intend to set your camera up over a scrape, a white light flash is a good choice. Bucks at scrapes are usually fairly active and moving. A standard LED camera will produce blurry images. A white flash unit will not. Moultrie offers very good flash units in its Game Spy lineup.
Each unit will also have an advertised range for the flash. This tells you how far away a deer can be from the unit and still be illuminated by the flash. The longer the range, the better.
If anything has had more of an impact on the way we hunt over the past decade than the trail camera, I’d love to see it.
Once you’ve selected the type of flash you’d like to use, the next choice to make involves the features you’d like the camera to have. Most units will be capable of taking both photos and video. Some units include audio with the video, others do not.
Many units will also allow you to choose the resolution of the photos. I generally opt for the highest resolution possible. The Bushnell TrophyCam, for example, allows you to choose from 3, or megapixel images. By choosing the highest resolution, you’ll be able to zoom in on photos to look at subtle details (such as antler characteristics) that will be lost with lower-resolution settings. The tradeoff? You’ll fit fewer images on an SD card than with lower-resolution settings.
Trigger speeds are also advertised for each camera. This refers to the amount of time it takes for the camera to take a photo after it’s detected motion. Again, faster is better.
Want to know more about trail cameras? Check out our reviews from last fall.
Putting it to Good Use
Today’s cameras are easy to set up and deploy. Most will feature an LCD panel on the inside of the camera where you can set up variables such as the date, time, number of photos to be snapped with each activation and whether you want the camera to operate in photo or video mode.
If your goal is to simply take an inventory of the number and quality of deer in the area, using a camera over a mineral station or feeder is an excellent choice.
If you really want to get a look at the bucks in your area as the rut is closing in, it’s hard to beat putting a camera over an active scrap. In fact, I’ve had moderate success creating my own mock scrapes using nothing more than a sharp stick, an overhanging branch and a little pee (deer or human, seems not to matter).
For checking out food plot use, a trail camera can be ideal. But cameras that can be set to “field scan” mode are even better. The Bushnell TrophyCam HD, for example, can be set to take one photo at a specified interval (from 1-60 minutes). You then use included software to compress those images into a time-lapse sequence that will show how many deer are using the plot and where they came from. This is especially useful on plots or fields where passing deer may be too far away from the camera to trigger a photo.
No matter which bow you choose, you’ll need to add some accessories. A rest and sight are essential, and there is no shortage of options.
Arrow selection has gotten infinitely simpler in recent years. There was a time when you had to choose between carbon or aluminum, and it was a bit of a toss-up because carbon shaft technology was still in its infancy. Not anymore. Now, your best choice in virtually all situations is carbon. And there is no shortage of excellent shafts to choose from: Easton, Carbon Express, BloodSport, Beman, etc.
For the past century, at least, gun writers have made substantial portions of their income by talking about “deer rifles.” They’ve argued the merits of calibers. Of actions. Of optics. Of bullets. Of brush guns versus bean field guns. It’s all fun stuff to read if you’re a gun guy. If you’re just a deer hunter searching for a rifle, it can be confusing. Here’s what you really need to know.
Action. There are great deer rifles available in every action style. Lever action. Pump-action. Bolt-action. Semi-automatic. Single shot. The bolt action is overwhelmingly the most popular choice for today’s deer hunter. And there’s a reason why bench-rest competitors and other long-range target shooters favor bolt-action rifles. They’re solid, simple and reliable.
If you hunt in inclement weather or just aren’t one to baby your guns, buy yourself a bolt-action with a synthetic stock and stainless steel barrel and action. Of course, if you’re buying synthetic, we recommend picking a rifle decked out in your favorite Realtree camouflage pattern. If you’re more the nostalgic type, go for a hardwood stock and shiny blued steel barrel. Try to buy a rifle with a good factory trigger (many of today’s guns are adjustable), but if you can’t, consider having a gunsmith install an aftermarket trigger. It will do worlds to improve your shooting.
Need a place to shoot? Check out this feature on building your own shooting range.
Caliber. Brace yourself: Caliber doesn’t matter. Much. Buy and hunt with the caliber you want, so long as it’s legal in your area. Most whitetails are killed inside of 100 yards. And at that distance, any modern centerfire rifle firing a.2diameter or larger bullet and topped with even a cheap Wal-Mart scope will kill a buck with amazing efficiency.
If you don’t consider yourself a “gun person” and just need a good rifle to serve your hunting needs for years to come, then it’s best to stick with tested, established calibers. Finding ammunition – and a variety of it at that – on store shelves is easiest when you go that route. Common calibers tend to be less expensive, too.
Which caliber should you pick? Well, the.30-30 Winchester, famously chambered in the Winchester 9and Marlin 33lever actions, ushered in the era of smokeless powder and modern deer cartridges. I’ve seen it written time and again that this caliber has killed more deer than the others combined. I’m not sure I believe that.
While it’s certainly done its share (and continues to be a perfectly acceptable round), the.30-30 was surpassed by the.30-0Springfield more than a century ago. That round, and its necked-down sister, the.270 Winchester, are unquestionably two of the most common and effective deer rounds in existence. In a good rifle, they provide deer killing power at ranges farther than you’re probably capable of shooting.
Other calibers work just as well. But in the essence of space and simplicity, if you’re shopping for a one-and-done deer rifle, get a.30-0or a.270.
Scope. A budget deer rifle can still provide a lifetime of outstanding performance. But your scope is very much a get-what-you-pay-for piece of equipment. The advice outlined by Brian Strickland about binoculars in the optics section above goes doubly true for scopes. You don’t have to take out a second mortgage, but understand that it’s common for a good rifle scope to cost as much as the rifle you’re pairing it with.
Better scopes stand up better to recoil and abuse, which means they’ll still be “dead on” at the moment of truth. And they have better glass, which means you can actually see that buck well enough at the cusp of legal shooting light. Fixed-power scopes work fine, but most deer hunters prefer a variable-power scope. The 3x9x4is a great all-around choice.
Rifled is Good
But if you live or hunt in a shotgun-only area and hope to fill a tag or two, you’re going to need an accurate shotgun. An accurate shotgun is one that will stabilize the slug during flight. This is done with rifling. And with shotguns, you have two options: a rifled choke tube or a replacement, fully rifled barrel.
Although a rifled choke tube will improve accuracy over a straight smoothbore barrel, a fully-rifled barrel will provide far better performance and is really worth the investment if you’re serious about using your shotgun as a deer gun.
Gun Design Matters
The Remington 870 and Mossberg 500 are two of the most cherished of all shotguns in deer country, and for good reason. They are both workhorse pump guns. You can get all manner of choke tubes for each—including rifled tubes—and you can swap out for a fully-rifled barrel without breaking the bank. Many a whitetail has fallen to the 870 and 500.
But the 870 and 500—and virtually every other pump or semi-auto shotgun available do have their limitations. And that’s where guns designed specifically for slugs really shine. The H&R Ultra-Slugger, for example, is a single-shot gun made for slinging slugs. It has an obnoxiously heavy barrel that’s fully rifled. But you can top it with a quality scope, load it with saboted slugs and legitimately use it to kill whitetails from 200 yards.
Gear to Own
Cleaning a muzzleloader is absolutely mandatory, too, as the various propellants are typically highly corrosive. You might get by with shooting your gun on a Saturday and cleaning it on Sunday. Wait much longer than that, though, and you’re inviting rust. And rust ruins guns. Detailed cleaning instructions should be included with your gun, but if not, consult with the manufacturer.
Where to Shoot a Deer
So you’ve figured out where to hunt, how to scout that location, chosen your bow and/or gun and are ready to roll. Soon you’ll likely need to make the most critical decision in deer hunting: Where to place your shot.
Shot placement can mean the difference between a filled tag and a very bad experience. Fortunately, there is no magic or mystery involved. The anatomy of a deer is fairly straight forward and placing your bullet or broadhead in the chest cavity will get the job done. To learn exactly where to shoot a deer with a bow—and what to do after you make the hit—check out this interactive guide.
Above all else, it’s important to understand where a deer’s vital organs sit in its chest cavity. Ask yourself, can your weapon and your shooting abilities deliver a projectile to those vitals from the angle you’re looking with absolute certainty? If the answer is, “I’m not sure,” you need to wait for a better shot. If the answer is, “Yes, and I’m rock-solid,” then you know what to do. Pull the trigger and fill your tag.
Windows a little small
A fairly new company on the hunting scene is Field and Stream who have a large selection of hunting products you can check out. They’ve come up with this mid-high end priced blind that has a bit of everything going for it. Although maybe not one of the more well-known models, this our personal favourite all round tree stand blind. It has a bit of everything to it, adjustable sides, weatherproof roof, detachable skirt and quality material to match. It can also fit most treestands on the market but double check with the manufacturer over any uncertainty.
What the field & stream has to offer: We’re always honest in our reviews and like to mention what we didn’t like about each model, but this Field and Stream model made it hard for us not to like anything about it. The only thing that you maybe should check out before purchasing is whether it fits a smaller tree stand if you have one. Overall our choice for the best tree stand blind on the market today.
Guide Gear are another manufacturer that’s maybe not as well known in the hunting scene. This is another example of a budget blind skirt that does a basic job. Made with plastic this is quite a big blind that can cover most stands easily, and should be able to cover people comfortably. The material used has its downsides, but it is however waterproof. It is however nice and light, and you will be able to have it up and attached fairly easy.
Can hold people
Note: This purchase does not come with a tree stand This skirt has a lot going for it with the price tag, but there are a few let-downs that have to be considered before purchasing it. The main one is the fact that the quality of material it has isn’t as good as most of the other blinds we’ve reviewed. A common complaint from users is the fact that the material makes a lot of noise when exposed to the wind, this could potentially ruin a hunt. The material does hold up well in the wind and rain, but also can rip fairly easily. There’s no roof build into this, but again, you can’t expect everything with this price tag.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your deer blinds wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of deer blinds
- №1 — Ameristep Care Taker Hub Blind-Realtree Xtra
- №2 — Evolved Ingenuity 1RX2S010 Hunting Doghouse Ground Blind
- №3 — Barronett Blinds PT550BW Pentagon Pop Up Portable Hunting Blind