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Best dive lights 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated November 1, 2019
Best dive lights of 2018
After carefully examining the reviews and ratings of the people who have used them earlier this listicle has been made. Below you can find 3 reviews of the best dive lights to buy in 2018, which I have picked after the deep market research.
We’ve narrowed down our options based on the customer feedback (read positive reviews), functionality, material and size. In other words, we’ve put all fundamentals into consideration to come up with a comprehensive list that suits various needs. You must have heard that the best dive lights should allow you to save money, right? Sure, but that’s not the only reason you should consider getting one.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – Diving Flashlight
Why did this dive lights win the first place?
I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! The rear part fits perfectly! It is mounted really tight and reliable. The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product.
№2 – Tonelife Soft Goodman Glove 01 Nylon Hand and Arm Strap Adjustable Soft Hand Mount With Magic Tape and Max Diameter 5cm for Led Flashlight Dive Lights Scuba Torch
Why did this dive lights come in second place?
I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture. The design quality is top notch and the color is nice.
Why did this dive lights take third place?
I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
dive lights Buyer’s Guide
Things to Consider Before Choosing a Diving Light
What Makes These The Best Scuba Dive Lights? “Best” being a subjective term, it’s important that the context is established. There are a number of factors that must be considered, but some factors are more important than others.
Beam Shape and Size
This is probably the second most important factor. Once you allow for power levels (and therefore the light output) then the size and shape of the beam is the next step in functionality.
As an example, you may want to pinpoint an area further away. You want a beam wide enough to circle the area, but not so wide the light diffuses. You’ve no doubt used flashlights before, so the scenario is easy to imagine. That’s a third setting you might want.
Again, what you consider the best scuba dive lights will rely quite heavily on what you need. Are you looking for a primary scuba dive light or a backup one? You’ve likely already answered those questions, so there’s no need to go over them again.
The Light and Motion Sola Dive Light 1200
The diving weight of this light is low (clocking in at only 28grams), and it also features two highly illuminating light modes. The first is a 500-lumen spot mode for lighting up a specific area of focus. For a broader reach, this light also offered a 1200 lumen flood light for a larger view of what’s in the dark parts of the water. This is incredibly powerful, so keep in mind the problems with particle-ridden waters.
Unfortunately, it has only two light settings, bright and even brighter. Great if you dive in dark waters, not so great otherwise. While the batteries are rechargeable, you’ll have to recharge them often.
ORCATORCH D520 Diving Flashlight
The light is a 1000 lumens diving light, which means you probably shouldn’t even consider it if you’re not deep-sea diving. The light can handle trips downwards of 150 meters, however, which means if you’re using this light to full capacity then the 1000 lumens is more reasonable. The light’s on/off switch is used by twisting the front rather than hitting a switch. This does mean you’ll be less likely to accidentally turn it on or off.
The first disadvantage is that the light has a hard time piercing murk and dusk underwater. It’s hard to overemphasize how much worse visibility becomes with a bright light in murky water. Cold water also puts it at a disadvantage since it makes the twist on/off switch more difficult to use. Given the fact it’s being billed as a deep-water light that does lower its functionality.
All that said, ORCATORCH lists this light as a backup light. Given that fact, it’s hard to get upset that it doesn’t work as a primary light. Either way, it’s a durable light that works great as a backup.
BlueFire 1000LM XML-L2
The 1000 lumen flashlight can reach up to 100 meters, though as always murky water makes it tougher. Intended for up to 150 meters deep and fishing work, the XML-is focused mostly on casual divers. It draws its power from a 18650 battery that isn’t included but can be easily found elsewhere. The light does, however, make the best use of its battery power. Even beneath the water at 90 feet, the battery stays active for an hour.
It also offers three different beam settings; bright, dim, and strobe. Bright and dim are obvious, but the strobe light can be quite useful for scaring off sea creatures. If you do a lot of diving with critters, it might be a good idea.
The major disadvantage of this light is that it won’t hold up in salt water. In point of fact, the light is somewhat fragile in general. If you get sand in the on/off switch it can get stuck, and the battery must be removed if it doesn’t see use for a while.
Still, as a freshwater work-light, this might be the light for you.
Underwater Kinetics CeLED
Possibly the second most advanced dive flashlight on the list, the C8 features an unusual pistol grip hold. Plenty of lights have one, but the Cextends the similarities to a pistol by placing the switch to turn the light on like it was a gun trigger.
Of course, with a focused level of light, this does mean that the Cis a poor floodlight. The dual-light settings address battery power, but the battery is built in. This makes the light weigh less but renders it non-functional should the battery break for some reason.
Even so, this is another scuba dive light that may be great for professional work purposes.
Quik Pod Ultra for Go Pro
Sometimes you don’t want to put your expensive camera rig in a dangerous situation—say, into a shark’s mouth. Using the Quik Pod Ultra polecam is ideal for sticking your GoPro into hard-to-reach (or don’t-want-to-reach) locations. The pole is fully salt-waterproof and extends to 5inches. It also has a built-in selfie mirror—if that’s your thing.
CNET’s LED Buying Guide makes sense of the light bulb…
It’s been more than years since Congress passed the Energy Independence and Security Act of 200(EISA). In doing so, they put the age of inefficient incandescent lighting on notice. The law mandated strict new energy standards designed to kick-start a new era of greener, longer-lasting, more cost-efficient light bulbs — and that meant kicking outdated, inefficient bulbs to the curb.
The rising standards have already long rendered 100W and 75W incandescents obsolete, and in 2014, their 60W and 40W cousins met the same fate. Congressional budget waffling briefly seemed to put the new standards on hold, but it was largely too late — the industry had already moved on, and wasn’t interested in reversing course.
After lumens, the next concept you’ll want to understand is color temperature. Measured on the Kelvin scale, color temperature isn’t really a measure of heat. Instead, it’s a measure of the color that a light source produces, ranging from yellow on the low end of the scale to bluish on the high end, with whitish light in the middle.
An easy way to keep track of color temperature is to think of a flame: it starts out yellow and orange, but when it gets really hot, it turns blue. You could also think of color temperature in terms of the sun — low, yellowy color temperatures mimic the tone of light at sunrise or sunset, while hotter, more bluish-white color temperatures are more akin to daylight (sure enough, bulbs with color temperatures like these are commonly called “daylight” bulbs). This is also why a lot of people prefer high color temperatures during the day and lower color temperatures in the morning and evening. Some smart bulbs can even shift back and forth throughout the day.
Generally speaking, incandescents sit at the bottom of the scale with their yellow light, while CFLs and LEDs have long been thought to tend toward the high, bluish end of the spectrum. This has been a steady complaint about new lighting alternatives, as many people prefer the warm, familiar, low color temperature of incandescents. Manufacturers are listening, though, and in this case they heard consumers loud and clear, with more and more low-color-temperature CFL and LED options hitting the shelves. Don’t believe me? Take another look at those two paper lamps in the picture above, because they’re both CFL bulbs — from the same manufacturer, no less.
Sylvania often color codes its packaging. Blue indicates a hot, bluish color temperature, while the lighter shade indicates a white, more neutral light.
As you’re probably aware, light bulbs come in a fairly wide variety of shapes. Sure, it’s easy enough to tell a hardware store clerk that you want “one of those flamey-looking lights,” or “just a normal ol’ bulby light bulb,” but knowing the actual nomenclature might save you some time.
Your automated-lighting options
It used to be that if you wanted your lights to turn on and off automatically, then you had to rely on a cheap wall socket timer, the kind you might use to control a Christmas tree. These days, it’s easier than ever to dive into the sort of advanced automation controls that can make any home feel modern and futuristic. Use the right devices, and you’ll be able to control your lights in all sorts of creative ways, and make your life a little bit easier in the process.
The most obvious way to get started with smart lighting is with the bulbs themselves. You’ve got plenty of intelligent options from brands both big and small, and to find the one that’s best for you, you’re going to need to understand what sets them apart.
The first thing to look at is how the bulbs communicate with you. Some offer direct connections with your smart phone via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, which makes setup as simple as screwing the thing in and following the in-app pairing instructions.
Cree Connected LED and the
GE Link LED, cost a lot less up front, but don’t come with their own gateways — that means you’ll need a compatible third-party hub in order to control them.
Hubs like those are your best bet at building your own, elaborate smart home setup with different kinds of products from different brands all working together. However, if that sounds like too much of a headache, or if all you want are lights that come on automatically at sunset, then one of those starter kits that comes with its own gateway is probably worth the cash.
If you’re looking for a little more color in your life, then be sure and take a look at a product like the Philips Hue Starter Kit. Aside from being fully automatable via a mobile app and control hub, the Hue LED bulbs are capable of on-demand color changes. Just pull out your phone, select one of millions of possible shades, and the light will match it. And if you’re into voice control, Hue bulbs hit the compatibility trifecta — they’ll work with Siri, Alexa and Google Assistant.
Because Philips opened its lighting controls to third-party developers, you’ll also find lots of fun novelty uses for Hue bulbs, like changing the color of your lights in rhythm with whatever music you’re playing. There’s even an app that’ll sync your Hue lights up with certain TV programming. Philips plans to double down on the idea in a big way this year.
Hue lights are also directly compatible with the popular web service IFTTT, with recipes already available that will change the color of your lights to match the weather, or to signal a touchdown from your favorite football team or even to indicate when your stocks are doing well.
Welcome to the Underwater Photography Guide. This online book and magazine is a complete underwater photography tutorial full of u/w photography tips and techniques. Our idea is simple – learn, shoot, explore. We hope you enjoy and come back often – Scott Gietler, Owner of UWPG and Bluewater Photo & Travel.
Light & Motion SOLA 1200 with red light mode.
Shoot upwards towards the surface, not down (in nearly all cases), so your perspective includes more than just the sea bottom. If you aim your camera down, you are likely going to end up with a jumbled mess as your subject blends into the background of coral to the point where it’s hard to even pick apart the two. Separation is the name of the game; upward angles are key for isolating your subject against the water column. Exceptions: creatures with beautiful backs like sharks, cetaceans, and turtles against contrasting backgrounds like sandy bottoms or open ocean. Trying to shoot is why many photographers opt to use expensive 4degree or 90 degree viewfinders.
Upward angles help show context and remind the viewer that they are underwater by including a blue background. A downward angle, while appropriate for very specific subjects, can make it much more difficult to get oriented, and they make it more likely that subjects will blend in with the background.
Expose things properly
As with any type of photography, proper exposure is critical to get good results when shooting underwater. However, underwater photography adds additional complexity because artificial lighting is used most of the time. This requires balancing light from strobes or video light with the ambient light in the scene, especially in wide angle. This is done by dialing in shutter speed, ISO, strobes, and aperture independently, so it’s good to get comfortable with your camera’s manual mode.
Assuming an ISO is fixed at the right level, in a nutshell an underwater photographer lights a foreground subject by adjusting the aperture and your lighting system’s power. Then, since strobes are faster than the shutter speed and won’t be affected by the adjustment of that, the shutter adjustments are used to correctly expose the background to be light or dark blue (depending on the photographer’s preference). The best underwater images put the viewer in the underwater environment without making it obvious that the image was artificially lit.
This background/foreground and shutter speed/aperture/ISO technique takes a little while to get your head around, but with a little practice, it will lead to well-exposed images.
Great cameras to build a waterproof camera rig around
Again, for serious underwater photography, in general we do not recommend rugged point-and-shoots for use as underwater cameras—we recommend great regular cameras plus housings, which serve as waterproof suits of armor. Although you can choose a GoPro plus accessories or a rugged point-and-shoot camera that is mildly waterproof, your best bet for going deep and taking great photos is to pick something like the RX100 III or a mirrorless camera.
Sea & Sea YS-DStrobe
The YS-Dis a powerhouse of underwater lighting, giving nearly as much power output as the company’s much larger and more expensive YS-250 according to Backscatter’s strobe testing article. The YS-Dis powered by four AA batteries, easily enough to get you through two dives.
Sea & Sea YS-0Strobe
The YS-0is a good starter strobe, which makes it a good companion for point-and-shoot systems. This model (and all of the lights below) can be configured with the packages we mention above.
The Sea & Sea YS-0is a great starter strobe, and the perfect companion for many point and shoot systems because it is the lowest end model that does automatic strobe power metering (TTL, which is the way the camera’s flash can automatically control the external light’s power) which is how some people like to start out shooting underwater.
The strobe can only be triggered fiber-optically and cannot be used with non-fiber optic housings like those commonly found on older or much higher-end DSLRs without flashes, so it’s not a big limitation.
So why get a more expensive YS-Dover the YS-01? The YS-0is at least a few stops of light less powerful than the YS-D1, and that matters when trying to expose things using diffusers to light wide angle or fish eye shot or macro lenses where you need to stop down the aperture to get a good depth of field. It also takes longer to re-power (cycle) between shots.
In a nutshell, a DSLR and mirrorless camera deserve the more expensive YS-D1; for point and shooters who don’t want to upgrade later, the YS-0is fine. Again, realize the YS-0is about the same size as the YS-D1.
Like the YS-D1, you may need two of these. And again, more on this decision later.
Light & Motion Sola 2100 Video Light – Spot & Flood
This blenny was photographed using video lights. While a strobe is generally the most powerful light source for still photography, especially for moving subjects, video lights have come a long way in terms of their intensity, especially for the Sola 2100 and its intense spot beam.
Why aren’t we recommending this as our main pick for a video light? Well, frankly: most of the people who have contributed to this article have spent a lot of time diving with the Light & Motion lights and know they’re solid and reliable. Over time, we’ll know how we feel about the FIX NEO lights, too, but for now, we feel safer recommending the Solas.
Video filters are another option for getting good color underwater, though Magic Filters work best in bright conditions and require a custom white balance to be set on your camera.
Video filters such as Magic Filters are another viable option for getting good color when shooting wide-angle video underwater. Using these red-orange tinted filters involves setting a custom white balance in your camera off of a grey slate, the sand, or your hand in a pinch. Filters work incredibly well in clear water while always keeping the sun at your back for maximum saturation in the image. They cut a couple stops of light, so bright conditions are the best time to use them.
Getting your camera and strobe settings right
Protip: Some cameras will let you manually ratchet down your camera’s internal flash power (which is merely used to trigger the fiber optic input of the strobes) to its lowest setting, allowing you to save a lot of battery life on your body.
A Nauticam NA-D7100 housing with a single YS-Dstrobe attached using arms and clamps. The camera communicates with the strobe using its built-in flash via a fiber optic cable, which connects through the top of the housing. Photo courtesy of Nauticam USA.
Once you have your light source picked out, you’ll need to have a way to actually attach it to your camera housing. With GoPros, point-and-shoots, and most mirrorless cameras, the easiest way to achieve this is using a tray and handle system. The housing attaches to the tray using threaded screws, and then the light or flash can be attached to the tray using clamps and arms.
Wrapping it up
This guide is just the start of your journey beneath the surface into underwater imaging. Whatever your budget, any of the top picks in this article will give you a terrific platform to start exploring the amazing imaging opportunities that abound in the underwater world.
Piston vs. Diaphragm
This refers to how the first stage (attached to the tank) reduces tank pressure (upwards of 23bar) to an intermediate pressure (– bar), so the second stage (the part that’s in your mouth) can reduce the air to ambient (surrounding) pressure.
Regs with diaphragms in the first stage should be a bit less expensive but also cannot be as finely tuned, although they’ll perform well.
Regs with pistons will cost a bit more but are generally higher-performance because they can be more finely adjusted. However, when it comes time for the annual service, piston regs may cost you a bit more.
Shop for a regulator
Look at the number of high-pressure and low-pressure ports on the first stage and make sure there’s enough for your needs.
All regs have at least one high-pressure port (for your pressure gauge) and many have two, allowing you to run an extra pressure gauge or air-integrated computer.
If you are diving in a dry suit, you will require at least low pressure ports.
Take headphones for example.
Years ago, the only option was traditional wired on- or over-ear cans. But as technology improved, earbuds hit the market and soon the biggest names in audio weaved wireless Bluetooth tech into their most popular products.
These days Bluetooth wireless technology has improved to allow audio to be transmitted in Hi-Res, and batteries have improved to allow you to get several days of use out of a pair of headphones without needing to charge them.
We’ve entered the golden era of wireless technology.
Remote weighs cable down
NuForce knocked it out of the park with the BE Sportheadphones. They’re an incredible value for a pair of wireless headphones that sound good, last all day, have a bulletproof build and incredible noise isolation. While they’re not the most dynamic or resolving headphones, NuForce shows us that the future of wireless headphones is a bright one.
Not only do they provide awesome noise-cancellation, but they have three neat tricks that few other wireless headphones have: One is an ambient noise mode that only lets in mid-to-high frequency tones (announcements over a loudspeaker, for instance) and another being Quick Attention mode that allows you to let in all outside noise without taking off the headphones. (The latter is perfect when giving a drink order on a plane or speaking to a coworker for a brief moment before diving back into your work.) The last trick Sony has up its sleeve is the LDAC codec. Alongside the widely adopted aptX HD standard, LDAC enables Hi-Res Audio playback using the 1000XM2.
Great-sounding and feature-packed, the Sony WH-1000XMare great travel companions and all-around excellent wireless headphones.
The reason we haven’t put them further up the list comes down to their controls. Although controlling the headphones with a series of swipes on the outside of the earcup feels futuristic, it’s not much help when you want to quickly skip through multiple tracks, or set the volume at a specific level.
Safety lights will usually have at least one constant lighting mode, in addition to multiple flashing modes. They also offer higher levels of side visibility; so you can be seen at junctions by pedestrians and other road users.
Lezyne Strip Drive Pair 300/150 is the perfect bike light set, for when you want to be seen on the road.
On the rear, a bright safety light will allow other road users to see you from a good distance. Similar to commuting lights, using the flashing mode, and doubling up on these lights, will make you even more visible.
Exposure Trace Pack – Trace & TraceR with Handlebar and Pos features the TraceR – one of our brightest rear lights.
Bicycle lights for off-road riding
Riding a bike off-road, at night, offers a whole new dimension to your experience! Those familiar trails will feel like adrenaline-inspiring new routes, as they look a whole lot different under the cover of darkness.
As a bare minimum, you want a powerful bar mounted front light, ideally with an output upwards of 1000 lumens. These off-road specific lights will have a wider beam pattern too, so they can illuminate the whole of the trail in front of you.
High powered off-road lights feature the ability to “toggle” down the light level; so you can light up the world on those technical descents, but reign back the power, and conserve battery life, on those long uphill drags.
Exposure Maxx-D Mkis one of the most powerful, and most popular off-road specific front bicycle lights.
Seac Ego BCD Scuba Gear BC Regulator Package
Cressi RBCD Scuba Gear Package
This stylish scuba dive package comes in multiple colors of your choice. The pull strap located behind the heel of the feet for the fins fits nicely and provides good maneuverability in the water. As far as the mask goes, it is also of good quality and will fit perfectly. This scuba dive gear set has amazing quality with many great features, including Promate wave snorkeling fins, 100% dry whistle snorkel, and a nylon mesh bag with cord drawstring.
This is a really great kit, especially for the cheap price you get to pay. It has amazing fins, and quality equipment. This package is probably best for people who snorkel and only go scuba diving occasionally. It still works great for either, though. For this pair, the mask and snorkel work perfect. Some of the great features include Mares Volo Power adjustable open heel strap fins, phantom aquatics framless silicone mask, and phantom aquatics dry snorkel.
In this package, you will receive all you need for a quality scuba diving experience. The package includes Cressi Air/Nitrox Leonardo Computer Console, Cressi ACCompact Regulator, Cressi Compact Octopus Hose, and with a gear up guide regulator bag. If you decide to purchase the Cressi RBCD Leonardo Dive Computer ACCompact Regulator Set GupG Reg BagScuba Diving Package, you certainly will not regret it, as everything will arrive on time and in excellent condition.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your dive lights wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of dive lights
- №1 — Diving Flashlight
- №2 — Tonelife Soft Goodman Glove 01 Nylon Hand and Arm Strap Adjustable Soft Hand Mount With Magic Tape and Max Diameter 5cm for Led Flashlight Dive Lights Scuba Torch
- №3 — OxyLED DF20 Rechargeable Super Bright LED Submarine Waterproof Underwater Diving Torch Light