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Best oil paint 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]

Last Updated November 1, 2018
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Norman RyanHi! My name is Norman Ryan. I spent 38 hours researching and testing 17 different types of oil paint and found that material, variety of sizes, and style were most important.

I’ll brush up on how to choose the best oil paint and examine things like materials, quality, and weight. Without further-a-do, let’s take a look at the Top 3 list in 2018 which are available in the market.

Best oil paint of 2018

Whether you’re looking to upgrade your comfort, style, or accessibility, we have picks to fit a variety of needs and budgets. On that note, I review the three best oil paint of 2018 to help you get value for your money.

The table below summarizes features, and below you’ll find more detailed reviews of each good. The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more.

Test Results and Ratings

Rank №1 №2 №3
Product
Total 4.8 4.5 4.3
Design
5 points
5 points
4 points
Versatility
4 points
5 points
4 points
Construction
5 points
4 points
4 points
Value
5 points
4 points
5 points
Awards 1
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№1 – Castle Art Supplies Oil Paint Set Perfect for Professional and Beginners – Extend Your Painting Supplies to Include These 24 Richly Pigmented and Vivid Oil Colors Suitable for all Canvas

 
Castle Art Supplies Oil Paint Set Perfect for Professional and Beginners - Extend Your Painting Supplies to Include These 24 Richly Pigmented and Vivid Oil Colors Suitable for all Canvas

Pros
PROFESSIONAL QUALITY PAINT – Your masterpiece will stand out on any gallery wall thanks to our selection of vivid, pigment rich, artist quality oil paints in a stunning selection of 24 colors
VIBRANT COLOR COLLECTION – No need to hunt for the essential colors – we’ve brought them all together in this handy set, and due to their slow drying properties they will blend beautifully giving endless hues, tones and shades.
Cons
I didn’t notice a single drawback yet
 
Total:
4.8

Why did this oil paint win the first place?

I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing! I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I don’t know anything about other models from this brand, but I am fully satisfied with this product. The material is stylish, but it smells for the first couple of days.

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Design
5

5star

Versatility
4

4star

Construction
5

5star

Value
5

5star

 

 

№2 – Oil Paint Set – 12ml x 12 Tubes – Artists Quality Art Paints – Oil-Based Color – Professional Painting Supplies – MyArtscape

 
Oil Paint Set - 12ml x 12 Tubes - Artists Quality Art Paints - Oil-Based Color - Professional Painting Supplies - MyArtscape

Pros
OIL PAINT SET – 12 x 21ml tubes of professional artist grade paints for canvas, pads, boards, panels or paper
LASTING VIBRANT COLORS – lay down firm, superbly pigmented and light-fast colors that stay that way
GLOSSY FINISH – a thick and highly mixable oil paint with a traditional lustrous, rich high-sheen finish
Cons
Lacks durability.
Can be tricky for beginners.
 
Total:
4.5

Why did this oil paint come in second place?

This is a pretty decent product that perfectly fitted the interior of our office. Managers explained me all the details about the product range, price, and delivery. I recommend you to consider buying this model, it definitely worth its money. The material is pretty strong and easy to wash if needed.

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Design
5

5star

Versatility
5

5star

Construction
4

4star

Value
4

4star

 

 

№3 – Colore Oil Paint Set Perfect For Use On Landscape And Portrait Canvas Paintings

 
Colore Oil Paint Set  Perfect For Use On Landscape And Portrait Canvas Paintings

Pros
PREMIUM PROFESSIONAL GRADE – High Quality Oil Paint Kit for home wall art, scenery, abstract, landscape and fine portrait paintings. Manufactured to produce extremely vivid, superbly pigmented and super attractive bright colors that are both pleasing to the eye and picture perfect for most paintings.
Cons
Fairly expensive.
Require more effort to use.
 
Total:
4.3

Why did this oil paint take third place?

It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new.

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Design
4

4star

Versatility
4

4star

Construction
4

4star

Value
5

5star

 

 

oil paint Buyer’s Guide

If you keep the before points in mind, you can easily go out to the market and buy oil paint, right? No!

Flat and Matte

Flat paint has a nonreflective finish and matte is low luster. A paint brand usually offers one or the other. Both help hide imperfections on the surface. These finishes are the least resistant to stains, and although many did well in our mildew-resistance tests, the other finishes were better.

Best uses: Ceilings, living rooms, bedrooms, and anyplace with little wear and tear or where messy splatters are uncommon.

Eggshell and Satin

For a softer look, choose eggshell. Satin is shinier and more durable. Both are tougher and easier to clean than flat or matte paint. You’ll find that some paint lines offer both eggshell and satin. These sheens accentuate surface imperfections, so take time prepping, getting the walls as smooth as possible. Scrape away cracked or peeling paint with a metal putty knife. And use it to remove bumps, dried-on paint, and the raised edges around nail holes.

Best uses: Eggshell can be used in the family room, living room, bedrooms, and hallways. Satin works well in those rooms too—anywhere, really—and in the kitchen, dining area, children’s bedrooms, bathrooms, and hallways. Many satin finishes are tougher than they use to be and can be used on both walls and trim.

Semigloss

The most lustrous and toughest of this group, semigloss paints resist stains and are easy to clean. Very smooth surfaces are a must.

Best uses: Trim, windows, and doors. For walls that are in great condition, consider semigloss for kids’ rooms, the kitchen, and bathrooms if you don’t mind the shine.

Best and Worst Paints

When buying brushes for acrylic painting, you can get both the stiff bristle brushes used by oil painters and synthetic brushes made for smooth watercolor painting. It all depends on the effect you want to obtain with your brushwork.

Stiffer brushes will leave visible marks on the painting, with more textural results. Softer brushes will give you smoother brushstrokes, with more blending.

For oils you need thicker bristles to move the dense and heavy paint around. For watercolors you need a softer brush because the medium is very fluid. Acrylic paints are softer than oils but thicker than watercolors, so your brushes can be somewhere in the middle.

Expensive Sable Brushes Are too Fancy for Acrylics

Even though natural bristle brushes created for oil paint can be used with acrylic paint, you may want to avoid expensive sable brushes.

When painting with acrylics you need to keep your brushes wet or immersed in water for a long time, so that the paint does not dry on the brush, and this excessive moisture can ruin the natural fibers quickly.

Bristles or Hairs

The part of the brush that holds and applies the paint. They can be natural or synthetic. Good quality brushes have firmly held bristles. It’s important that they don’t fall out while you are painting, for aesthetic reasons and because you may create messes on your painting when you try to remove them.

Usually made from metal, it connects the handle to the hairs, and keeps the bristles in shape. A good ferrule does not rust or come loose.

Paint Brush Sizes

The size of a brush is indicated by a number on the handle, and it refers to how thick the brush is at the heel, where the ferrule meets the hairs. Sizes vary from 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, etc.

Different manufacturers have different sizes for the same number, so if you buy supplies online, always refer to the measurement of the brush, not just the size number, especially if you are not familiar with the manufacturer.

How to read manufacturer measurements

Length: distance from the edge of the ferrule out to the tip of the hair in the brush’s center.

Diameter: distance across a round ferrule at the point where the ferrule ends and the hair begins.

Width: distance across a flat ferrule at the exact point where the ferrule ends and the hair begins.

A brush’s width is different from the width of the paint stroke that the brush makes. The actual width of the stroke varies according to the amount of pressure used, the angle at which the brush is held, the media used, and the flexibility of the brush hair.

The brush stroke will vary depending on how you hold your brushes too. Holding your brush close to the ferrule gives you most control, great for painting details; holding near the end gives you lose strokes.

When Choosing Brushes You Should Consider

Size – The rule of thumb about brush size is that big brushes should be used for large areas and loose brushwork, and small brushes should be used for small areas and details.

Shape – each shape delivers different stroke styles, and a different effect. Learning which shape to use to get the wanted effect is very important, and requires some experimenting. Have fun with it.

Material – Nylon brushes are best to lay flat paint areas, while natural bristles give a more uneven texture.

Paint Brush Sets

Brushes can be very expensive. To save some money, you may purchase a paint brush set.

Brush sets come conveniently assorted in sizes and shapes. Many sets are a lower quality, but they can still be a great choice for beginner painters, and allow you to get used to the different types and sizes of brushes without investing a lot of money into it.

Once you know what type of brush you like to work with, you can expand your brush collection and invest in higher quality, more expensive brushes of your choice.

Easels made Simple

The artist who likes to produce larger paintings will need a firm support on which to rest the painting. In such cases, the A frame or H frame easel might be considered. The A frame easel (also known as the tripod easel) or its more lightweight version, the French easel are the most popular choices for larger paintings, as they can be easily folded up and stored compactly. The more lightweight versions often come with a carry case and collapsible stool.

Large Easels for Large Oil Paintings

H-frame easel. These sturdy easels will support very large canvases or heavy panels whilst the painting is in progress.

Which Easel Advice for Artists

Thinking about the needs of the artist before purchasing an easel is important. Space, budget and the size of the paintings should be factored into when it comes to choosing an easel. I like to keep it simple.

I have an old A-frame easel for larger paintings, and a small table easel for small oil sketches. Gadgety easels with unnecessary accessories will only cause the artist to pay for things that may not be used. Second-hand easels are great if budget is an issue, but look out for woodworm and faulty mechanisms. Paint splashes can be sanded off and the easel restored to new. Personally, I find a paint-splashed and used-looking easel more appealing than a brand-new one.

Paint Materials

By far, latex based paints are the most popular option on the market today. Latex is literally a rubber which functions as a base to ensure the paint maintains integrity; basically sticking together and not turning into dust. Latex paints are water based, meaning that they can be cleaned up with water.

Acrylic-Latex

These are essentially an evolutionary improvement on latex paints. Acrylic is a plastic added to the latex paint which makes for a tougher paint which lasts longer. Almost all quality latex paints are actually acrylic-latex paints.

High-gloss Applications – Although there are a few acrylic-latex paints available on the market which are high gloss paints, they are extremely rare. Typically, if you need high-gloss paint, you need to buy an oil-based paint.

Painting Metal – Latex and acrylic/latex paints don’t do well on metals. Essentially, metals are better heat conductors than other materials. Have you ever touched a metal gate on a hot day? It seems much hotter than wood or brick siding on the house because it transmits that heat to your hand better. This over-dries paint, essentially baking it onto the substrate. In the case of latex paints, this causes the paint to shrink, eliminating the rubbers flexibility advantage and causes the paint to crack.

Extremely Smooth Paint Application is Required – Because oil-based paints dry slower than latex paints, they have more opportunity to “flow out”,  eliminating brushstrokes and other elements which cause uneven paint application.

Newer acrylic-latex paints have been developed which to a large part duplicate the advantages of oil-based paints. For this reason, and even more so because of government environmental regulations, many companies are terminating their production of oil based paints.

Eggshell

Eggshell is the next step up in gloss from a pure flat paint. Some manufacturers use the terms eggshell and satin interchangeably; however, in reality they aren’t. These two sheens are the most commonly used for both interior and exterior applications in a home. For the interior, this sheen of paint cleans much easier than flat paints. For the exterior, this sheen of paint resists water much better than flat paints.

Semi-gloss

When you want your woodwork to stand out or you want superior washability, the clear choice is to use a semi-gloss paint. These paints are most commonly used for painted woodwork (as opposed to stained and varnished woodwork), or kitchen and bathroom walls. The drawback in using semi-gloss paints over satin finish paints is imperfections will stand out much more. It is essential when using semi-gloss or high gloss paints that you properly prepare your substrate, especially nail holes and drywall seams, to ensure a smooth surface your paint is applied to.

High gloss

High gloss paints are typically only used for painted wood trim and wrought-iron, providing a finish which stands out much more. As such, the only ones who use it for painted wood trim are individuals putting in wide, expensive trim.

Additionally, high gloss paints are used in some specialty applications where high washability and stain resistance is necessary. The only places you might see this would be in a home would be a utility room or a garage floor. Additionally, although it isn’t a residential usage, you occasionally find this in commercial kitchens.

Regular Primers

Almost all surfaces used in the building of a home are porous. That means that the paint will soak into the surface, especially when it is new. Since paint can be expensive, this isn’t necessarily a good use of paint. Primers typically cost less than paints and seal porous surfaces to ensure your paint stays on top of the substrate. The other effect primers have is to form a good bond between the substrate and the paint, adding to the paints lifespan. This is especially important with non-porous surfaces such as metals.

Block Filler

Although not really a primer, I’ve included this here with the primers, because it needs to be mentioned. Cement block, sometimes known as cinderblock, is highly porous. When painting with any normal paint, the paint both soaks into the block, and doesn’t have enough viscosity to bridge over the larger dips in the surface. Block filler is an extremely thick primer which works to fill those dips and seal off the surface. Unlike other paints and primers, block filler is only good for about 7square feet per gallon.

Aluminum Primer

Aluminum is one of the hardest substrates to paint as most paints, even oil-based ones, won’t stick to it. However, almost all houses have aluminum flashing on the roofs. While the flashing on the roof usually isn’t painted, it is painted when it comes down to meet a deck, or a lower roof, such as a separate roof around the porch of a two story house. The normal procedure to paint aluminum is to acid etch it first, and then rinse off the acid. Once the aluminum is dry, a special primer is applied before painting.

Exterior Trim

You can use either satin or flat acrylic-latex paint for your exterior trim. If you’re  painting your home for the first time, be sure to prime the wood with a quality primer/sealer before painting. All cracks, splits in the wood and sunken nail holes need to be caulked before painting. Be sure to scrape off any loose paint, especially if the wood is weathered, before painting.

Exterior Aluminum

Acid etch the aluminum, and then rinse it off with clean water. Once dry, you can paint it with either acrylic-latex paint, or oil-based paint. Since the aluminum is primed, latex and acrylic-latex paints will stick to the metal. For the best long-term results, I recommend using an oil-based paint.

Exterior Doors

Of anything on your house, the exterior doors and door frames take the most abuse. Two things in particular are common causes of damage to a door’s paint job which include keys, and shoes from kicking the door open or closed. For the sake of toughness, I recommend painting exterior doors with oil-based paints. Latex paints will work, but you’ll be repainting your door at least once a year to keep it looking nice.

Garage Floors

The best thing for painting garage floors is epoxy paint. While a little pricey, it will give you the longest lasting, chemical/oil resistant finish you can get. Before applying your paint, clean any oil and grease thoroughly off of the floor with a product designed for cleaning concrete. Once again, there are a number of these available on the market. If you can’t find them elsewhere, try your local auto parts store. Try and apply two coats of epoxy paint if you can; you’ll need to split your material in half, and only mix half of it at a time.

Children’s Furniture

Most children’s furniture is painted with high gloss oil based paint. This is done more than anything for durability. You don’t want that paint chipping and peeling. Once again, make sure you use a quality primer/sealer before painting. If refinishing, be sure to properly fill and sand all dings, cracks and nail holes; prime those areas before painting.

Wooster Brush 597Softip Two Pack Paintbrushes

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Be sure to click through HuffPost Home’s slideshow to see ordinary items in your house that could be worth big bucks.

Acrylic Paints

Acrylic paints are now probably the most popular type of paint used by modellers in the modelling world; the paint can be easily applied using a brush or airbrush. Acrylic paints tend to be safer than other types; the drying time is also far quicker allowing models to be painted in hours rather than days.

Acrylic paints were traditionally used by artists however specific ranges were introduced for modellers in small pots; they are generally low odour and low toxicity in nature. The paint can also be thinned with water or alcohol, this also allow for easier cleaning of an airbrush.

There are a number of different brands of paint and all give good results, Tamiya paints are one of the widest ranges of acrylic paints, and are popular with most modellers. Revell and Humbrol also have ranges of acrylic paints aimed at the modeller. Xtracrylix are a UK company that produce paints covering R.A.F., Luftwaffe, Russian and American air forces in both modern and WWII eras.

The paints should be thinned if using an airbrush; the ratio can vary depending on the application however a 50:50 mix with the manufacturers own brand thinner, should be suitable for most airbrushing needs.

Lacquer Paints

Lacquer paint is very different from acrylic and enamel paints. Although it is highly toxic with a very strong smell and very flammable, it is also hard, durable and very shiny.

The shiny hard wearing coat is ideal for natural metal finishes and aircraft; it is also very popular with auto modellers giving cars that new fresh factory look. Radio control enthusiasts also make use of this hardwearing shiny paint with models which need to survive the real world knocks and bumps.

One of the most popular ranges of metallic lacquers is made by Alclad, these lacquers paints are applied to the surface of the model using an airbrush the room should also be very well ventilated area and with a protective mask. Alclad also supply an airbrush cleaner, this is highly recommended if you value your airbrush.

Whatever type of paint you are using you should wear a good respirator in a well-ventilated room when airbrushing.

Maimeri Artisti Oil Colours

Since 1922, Maimeri has insisted on offering a paint made up exclusively of oil and pigment – no fillers, additives or waxes. The company also offers a Renaissance, Mediterranean and Puro line of colours. The Renaissance and Puro lines were well received by reviewers, however, many said that the Mediterranean line was lacking the same heavy pigment load that they had come to expect from Maimeri’s paints.

Holbein Artists’ Oil Colours

Holbein produces two varieties of professional oil paints: Artists’ Oil Colours and Vernét Superior Artists’ Colours. For the latter, the grains of pigment are ground to half the size of the pigment found in standard products, which results in the light being reflected more evenly across the surface of a painting. The price of this product is quite high, but many artists observed that a little bit of paint can go a very long way.

Winsor & Newton Winton Oil Colours

Winsor & Newton’s Winton line is rated well by painting instructors, students and professionals who require a high volume of paint. The price is right for the pigment load and most artists said that it has a very workable consistency. Most of the reviewers for this article are oil painters, but a few artists more experienced with acrylics found that this product was able to ease their transition to oil colours nicely.

NATURAL PAINTS

Extended exposure to VOCs (volatile organic compounds) in paint can make some people nauseous and dizzy. Most synthetic, water-based paints contain an acceptable level of VOCs that shouldn’t prove a risk to the DIY painter, provided they are used in a well-ventilated room.

But if you suffer respiratory ailments, are chemically sensitive, or want a greener alternative, there are paints based on plant oils, extracts and minerals that contain little or no VOCs. Try a supplier like The Natural Paint Place for more product information.

Some manufacturers’ satins are quite smooth and velvety-looking; others are glossier and not that far removed from a semi-gloss. A true satin sits somewhere in the middle – think of it as a mid-sheen paint. Kids’ rooms often suit satin because it takes more wear and tear than flats or low sheens and isn’t bothered by a light scrub. Satin also works well in kitchens and bathrooms as the higher level of gloss a paint has, the more durable it is.

Also referred to as matt, ultra flat and matt acrylic, flat paint has little-to-no shine and delivers an elegant finish. Choose this paint if you have less-than-perfect walls – its coarse pigments deflect light rather than absorb it, making faults in the underlying surface less obvious. But because it’s matt it’s prone to scuffs and marks, and isn’t suitable for high-traffic areas or kids’ rooms – those same coarse pigments that hide imperfections can be worn down by cleaning, leaving shiny patches.

LOW SHEEN

The level of sheen in this category can differ markedly. Paints labelled eggshell tend to have a lower level of shine than those called low sheen. But by definition, both have a slight lustre and work in living areas and bedrooms. Low sheen paint is the most popular paint used in Australian living areas – it disguises imperfections, albeit to a lesser degree than flat paint, but is less damaged by cleaning.

Painting Kits canvases to the wall or to a ladder using some standard office clamps. But be sure to put some cardboard or paper in between the painting and the wall.

Two Inch Brush

This one is the most used brush on the ‘Joy of Painting’ television show. Bob uses it to create all kind of things, from clear skies and stormy clouds to big ol’ trees and cute little bushes.

When to Prime

Every unfinished surface—including wood, drywall, metal, and concrete—should be primed before painting. While it can be tempting to skip this step, the results are almost always disappointing. Paint applied to unprimed surfaces tends to peel, crack, and chalk more than paint applied to properly primed surfaces.

While it used to be necessary to apply oil-based primers over oil-based paint and latex primers over latex paints, many primers today allow you to switch between them as long as you prepare the surface properly. When painting over interior oil-based woodwork with latex, be sure to sand or degloss the surface first, then paint with a bonding primer before topcoating with latex.

At first glance applying primer may seem like an unnecessary expense, but it actually saves money as well as time. A good coat of primer improves paint’s hide, or ability to cover, reducing the number of coats that are necessary to achieve a smooth finish. Primers can be tinted to match the paint color. Tinting improves the primer’s hide and smoothes the transition between primer and topcoat.

Oil Primers

These slow drying primers release volatile organic compounds in the air and require mineral spirits for cleanup and thinning. They produce a very smooth finish that does the best job of filling pores in bare wood while not raising the grain. Oil primers also provide a good barrier to keep tannins from certain woods from bleeding through.

Latex primers

These fast drying, water-soluble primers have come along way in recent years and are now available in low and no-VOC formulas. Latex primers are not as brittle as their oil or shellac-based cousins and provide a more flexible finish that is resistant to cracking. This makes them suitable for priming bare softwoods, though test them first to see if they raise the grain or allow resin to bleed through.

Latex primers are the best choice for unfinished drywall, since they act to even out the texture and sheen between the wallboard and joint compound. They also allow water vapor to pass through, which can make them less likely to peel.

Interior

Everything you need to know about your home, from securing a mortgage to painting your living room.

To help DIY painters do things right, Hamberg put together a foolproof shopping list of the essential supplies. Here you’ll find a good starting point for the average interior paint job that doesn’t require too much damage control or problem solving for difficult surfaces. Many of these products will be found at independent paint specialty stores, as opposed to big box home improvement centers.

Wall preparation supplies

After thoroughly cleaning the surface you’ll be painting, it may need a little TLC. “If you have holes and cracks, you have to use the right patching material,” Hamberg says.

There are many different caulks, spackles, and compounds to treat the potential surface problems. Make sure that the one you choose is appropriate, paintable, and also fairly fresh. “Don’t use stuff that’s been sitting around for years,” Hamberg says, cautioning that expired products won’t perform well. He’s had good experiences using the 3M Patch plus primer, as well as Tower products, such as the Techsealant.

Homeowners need tape to protect certain elements from seepage, like baseboard or the line where the wall meets the ceiling. When choosing a tape, ask yourself how long the tape will be left up—the longer it’s left to stick, the more likely it will allow drips to creep through.

Once you’ve identified any problem areas, read the labels thoroughly to make the right match. “There’s a specialty primer for everything,” says Hamberg. He considers Rust-Oleum a good go-to brand for these.

Beyond the specialty versions, Hamberg suggests the following two as good all-around primers for basic interior jobs: Sherwin-Williams Multi-Purpose Primer for its stain-killing capabilities and Rustoleum’s Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-water-based primer. “For about 80 percent of the cases of where you need a primer, those would work,” he says, including on surfaces like wood, brick, and metal, as well as drywall and exterior siding. Another good primer for concealing rough spots or “alligator areas” on the exterior of your house is XIM Peel Bond, which is a primer and sealer. “It’s like paint assurance in a can,” Hamberg says. Another exterior product to try is Sherwin-William’s Rejuvenate Siding Restoration, which is a combined paint and primer that’s designed for adhesion and smoothing marginal areas.

Brushes

Brushes are needed to control the finish, reach difficult areas, and execute touch ups. Hamberg recommends starting with either the Purdy Clearcut or the Purdy Clearcut Elite (both with bristles cut at an angle). “It mimics some of the natural bristles and lays off smooth,” says Hamberg. Most homeowners will accomplish their needs with a 2-inch brush for trim and a ½-inch brush for walls, and these should work for all different types of paint. Hamberg also likes the performance of Corona brushes.

Most important is to clean the brush properly after each use. “Dawn dishwashing detergent probably works the best to get the paint out,” Hamberg says.

Any five-gallon bucket will work, says Hamberg. Then just pair it with a grid that fits your roller size (inches) and clips onto the outside of the bucket. (There are handheld, quart-size buckets with built-in grids for smaller rollers and brushes.) “You’ll never use a tray again,” says Hamberg.

Distemper

This is perhaps the most economical type of painting available in the Indian market today. It can be classified as a “Whitewash” job. This term is probably deep rooted in our vocabulary as home owners whitewash their homes prior to renting it out and occupants insist on a periodic whitewash from the home owners! The major constituents of distemper are chalk, lime, water and some coloring agents if necessary. Distemper is a water based paint.

Emulsions

This type of paint is also water based and provides a rich and Matt finish to interior walls. The differentiating factor of emulsion paints is its acrylic quality. Its composition imparts excellent durability to the painted surface and gives the walls a just painted look. It washable and most stains can be removed easily by wiping with a cloth dipped in a mild soap solution. The paint film is also fungus and mildew resistant.

Solvent based paints(Lustre/Enamel)           

Solvent based paints – Lustre paints, Enamel paints and oil paints all come under the category of solvent based paints. They cannot be pre-mixed with water. Oil based paints take a longer time to dry and often produce strong odors which are irritating and sometimes even toxic in nature. The advantage with these paints is that they really last long and produce rich and desiring effects on the wall.

FUNCTIONAL PAINTS

Functional paints are not just decorative paints, they have specific functions like eliminating insects, bacteria, fungus or dust mites. Functional paints have an in-built, safe and non-toxic mechanism to humans but fatal to insects, fungus, bacteria or Dustmites.

Artilin is one such company which manufactures functional paints.

Paints, when dried on the surface, produce films with varying degree of sheen. This ranges from Matt finishes which have no sheen, to high gloss finishes.

Solid wood

Wood is a beautiful natural material and Next use a variety of solid natural woods in many of its furniture products. When buying a piece of furniture made from solid wood it is important to remember that wood is a natural product. The most obvious characteristic of wood is the grain pattern – this can be along the length of a tree and branches, burrs and age will cause variances. Some species such as Oak which can have visible white markings within the grain known as medullary rays. Colour variation within a single piece is natural as different parts of the wood will absorb more stain or oil than others. It is also natural for the colour of the wood to mellow and mature with age. For this reason it is important to regularly move any objects which are kept on the surface to prevent localised colour differences. It is also necessary to protect wood from excessive heat and moisture as this can cause movement resulting in splitting or warping. Wooden furniture is an investment and by following the care advice included with the product you will ensure that it continues to look at its best.

Other materials

Manmade boards are ideal construction materials used to achieve a smooth flat base on which to apply paint or veneer. They are less prone to warping, splitting and expanding when temperature and humidity vary. The boards used in some Next products are Chipboard,MDF, Hollowboard and Plyboard.

Veneers

Veneer is a thin layer laminated to another material, they can be natural wood veneers or synthetic veneers and they allow effects that cannot be achieved with solid wood. Wood veneers are very thin layers of real wood usually used on chipboard to provide the appearance of a solid wood panel, or to another wood as a decorative finish. They allow a closer grain match than natural wood, but are still a natural product. Synthetic veneers are paper of pvc foils which can be plain or printed with a grain to look like a real wood. These are often used on back panels and drawer bases. Synthetic veneers have a consistent colour and pattern therefore there will be very little colour variance between pieces.

Home Made Canvases

You can stretch and prepare your own canvases and you may or may not save a bit of money n the process. But I would suggest artists that do this, do it for the love and pleasure of creating every aspect of their work from scratch.

Canvasses, in their raw state, are brown and traditionally an animal extract glue is painted on to seal and stiffen the surface.

Once this preparation is complete, the canvas is then wrapped around a wooden frame and stapled to the sides or, for a better finish, to the back.

It’s then given several coats of primer (very often a white acrylic primer called gesso) to seal it and prevent the oil from the paints soaking through the surface.

Typically, three coats of primer are used, each being painted at right angles to the previous coat, to ensure even coverage.

Ordinary 1.5inch x 0.75inch planed timber can be used to make the frame, joined with simple butt joints, providing you can ensure a truly squared frame.

Rubber-Based Paint 

Envirolon synthetic rubber-based paints are perfect for gunite, plaster, and concrete pools. It is easy to apply and cures to a smooth surface that is easier to keep clean.  No longer made with chlorinated compounds, our new synthetic rubber-based pool paint is low VOC. For those who like the original, our CRC Pro-Series rubber-based paint is an economical standard. Two properly applied coats will last about 2-years.

Pool Painting Preparation

If your pool area is damaged, you will need to repair and fill any cracks, pits, or holes before prepping the surface.

To properly prepare the surface of a gunite or plaster pool, the first step is to safely drain the pool completely. The next step is to remove any invisible grease and oils that are on the surface. Using a flower watering can and a scrub brush, wash the surface with a Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) solution, and scrub well. Rinse thoroughly.

After the surface is degreased, you are ready to remove mineral deposits and “etch” the surface. Diluted muriatic acid can be used, or use our easier and safer Sulfamic Acid cleaner. Etching the pool surface gives the new paint a rougher surface to adhere to. TSP and Acid can be purchased separately, but are conveniently sold together as part of our Surface Preparation Kit.

Fiberglass pools will require sanding (the entire pool) with coarse sandpaper, instead of acid etching; followed by cleansing with TSP, as described above.

Before painting, clean off the deck surrounding the pool, to prevent debris from blowing in the pool. Check the weather; no rain or high winds in the forecast. And, on all paints except Acrylic, you will need several days of drying time before and after painting the pool.

Now back to my palette

Before we get too far in, you’ll need to start thinking about paint color differently — you must understand that every oil paint manufactured color actually has a main color (the one you see) and another color that is part of a filler and blend.

Could be that they wouldn’t stay in business for long, (because of the ability for us to mix all the rest ourselves) or the manufacturing process just makes it impossible to create, thus preventing them with coming up with the perfect combination.

So each of the colors listed above you will find will lean one way or the other towards another color on the Color Wheel.

 

 

 

 

How to save up to 86%? Here is little trick.

You must visit the page of sales. Here is the link. If you don’t care about which brand is better, then you can choose the oil paint by the price and buy from the one who will offer the greatest discount.

 

 

Final Word

First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.

Most important, have fun and choose your oil paint wisely! Good luck!

So, TOP3 of oil paint

 

 

Questions? Leave a comment below!

Chatting about oil paint is my passion! Leave me a question in the comments, I answer each and every one and would love to get to know you better!



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