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Best pipe clamps 2018 – [Buyer’s Guide]Last Updated September 1, 2018
Best pipe clamps of 2018
Come with me. Whether you’re looking to upgrade your comfort, style, or accessibility, we have picks to fit a variety of needs and budgets.
The rating is based on multiple factors: The 3 metrics ‐ Design, Materials, Performance, and other indicators such as: Popularity, Opinions, Brand, Reputation and more. There is a wide range of products available on the market today, and below I have reviewed 3 of the very best options.
Test Results and Ratings
№1 – Cable Clamp
Why did this pipe clamps win the first place?
The product is very strong. Its material is stable and doesn’t crack. I also liked the delivery service that was fast and quick to react. It was delivered on the third day. I am very happy with the purchase. It is definitely worth its money. The product is top-notch! I really enjoy the design. It is compact, comfortable and reliable. And it looks amazing!
Why did this pipe clamps come in second place?
The design quality is top notch and the color is nice. I like this product. For such a low price, I didn’t even hope it to be any better. It’s decently made. I really liked it. It is amazing in every aspect. It did even exceed my expectations for a bit, considering the affordable price. Seems that the material is good. It has a very beautiful color but I don’t really like the texture.
Why did this pipe clamps take third place?
It is inconvenient to use due to the size. I am going to get something different next time. A very convenient model. It is affordable and made of high-quality materials. I liked the design. We’ve been using it for 2 months and it still looks like brand new. It doesn’t squeaks nor bents. Looks great in my apartment.
pipe clamps Buyer’s Guide
Parallel-jaw clamps features jaws fixed at 90° to the clamp bar to help ensure square and flat glue-ups.
Another must-have clamp that comes in many lengths to work well with large glue-ups. Their jaws remain fixed at 90° to the bar and parallel to each other to help ensure square assemblies. With strong user grip strength, the clamps can provide as much as 1,000 pounds of pressure.
Corner clamps practically guarantee perfectly square corners.
Look to these when clamping together mitered pieces such as the sides of a picture frame. The jaws, set at 90°, ensure square corners. Versions like the one shown make easy work of clamping drawer corners, shelving joints, and other applications where two parts meet at 90°.
With a strap clamp you can simultaneously clamp up all the joints of a mitered frame.
Here’s another great clamp for mitered pieces such as the sides of a picture frame. While it provides less pressure than a corner clamp, it can be used on odd-shaped pieces (even round) in addition to projects with 90° joints. For frames with more than four sides, simply use it without the plastic corners shown in the photo.
Apply a spring clamp with one squeeze of its handles.
For quick and easy operation you can’t beat these clamps. They go on as fast as clothespins wherever light pressure suffices.
When edge-gluing boards for a tabletop or large panel, alternate the clamp bars or pipes over the top and bottom surfaces of the glue-up. That helps in countering the tendency of the laminated boards to twist because the uneven pulling force of one clamp counteracts the uneven pulling force of the clamps on either side of it. So start with one clamp on the underside of the glue-up, then place the next clamp on top. Alternate the clamps in this fashion across the width of the glue-up.
As a general rule of thumb, apply just enough pressure to hold the workpieces firmly in contact along the entire glued joint surface. You want to see some glue squeezeout, but you don’t want to completely squeeze the glue from the joint. More-or-less equal squeezeout along the joint line tells you the pressure is evenly distributed.
The Bar Clamp
For serious jobs, this is the best clamp money can buy. The parallel clamp has two faces that provide parallel force and plenty of it. The long bar on this clamp supports the workpiece at a 90 degree angle so the joint comes out flat and strong. The main challenge with this clamp is the weight, each one weighs in at about lbs so hefting it around the shop is a pain. If you’re planning on building cabinets, panels, or tables, these are the best choice. They’re pricey, but for good reason. They work.
Buy at least 12″ larger than you plan on needing, the extra length is always nice to have available. We recommend at least (48″), but four would be awesome if you’ve got the budget.
This should actually be the first consideration. How powerful your clamp is in terms of grip is what makes clamps what they are. Flimsy clamps are no use for projects that require a firm grip to keep things tight and together.
Extending Pipe Clamps
A nice way around this problem is use pipe union couplings.
Couplings or unions are cheap, usually a couple of dollars, and they allow you to connect pipes together to make increasingly larger clamps.
I have a bunch of 4-foot and 2-foot pipes and with use couplings I can combine them and increase the size of my clamp as needed.
The overall best type of bar clamp for assembly work is the parallel bar clamp, though I will also include in the discussion other alternatives that are favored by many woodworkers.
These clamps have the great advantage of accurately directing clamping force. While clamps in general may seem like fairly coarse tools, good ones are actually refined, accurate tools. This is important during the crunch time of glue up when the assembly must be true and there is no going back once the glue starts to set. Skillfully tweaking the position and force of high quality parallel clamps can help make critical alignments easy.
An economical option in bar clamps
When planning your clamp buying, consider three general categories of assemblies. First are post and rail assemblies, such as clamping a pair of table legs connected by an apron with mortise and tenon joints. Stile and rail assemblies are similar, exemplified by a frame and panel door. Second are case assemblies, such as a dovetailed blanket chest. Third are the edge-to-edge joints used to glue up boards to make wider panels.
There’s no denying the satisfaction of owning a permanent mounted stand that is more solid than the bike it’s holding, but a permanent workstand is really only for committed home mechanics. Its solidity means you’ll have a much better chance of loosening tight pedals or rusted bottom brackets, but it’s impractical if you don’t have a permanet work space. While most permanent options bolt to the floor, wall or bench, you can also consider a big steel plate that lets you move the workstand, at least a little.
A bend angle in tube bending usually is calculated from the outside—the complementary bend angle. Other critical dimensions are the wall thickness (which thickens on the inside radius and thins on the outside radius) and outside diameter.
The pressure die (also called a pressure slide) supports the outside radius during bending. The pressure die can be stationary; it can follow the workpiece, sliding on rollers at the same rate the workpiece is being drawn into the bend; or it can be “boosted,” pushed with hydraulics or (more common today) electrical servomotors, further minimizing wall thinning. All these elements effectively control both the tube ID and OD throughout bending.
To achieve the perfect bend, you need a good tooling setup, and nowhere is this more critical than in rotary draw bending. Consider the mandrel—its hardness matters. If you have a hard tube and a hard mandrel, or a soft tube and soft mandrel, the mandrel will tend to stick inside the tube and wreak havoc on the process. As a rule of thumb, make sure you have a combination of hard and soft material. If you have a hard workpiece, you need a soft mandrel; if you have a soft workpiece, you need to use a hard mandrel.
Your tooling also should take radial growth into account (see Figure 9). If radial growth is excessive, the nature of the rotary draw process means that after the clamp die releases, the radius at the beginning of the bend will be noticeably different from the radius at the end of the bend. To accommodate for radial growth, particularly if it involves hard material and a 3×D CLR or greater, you may need to use a bend die with a smaller radius.
Draw bending also requires a good tube with good welds. An inconsistent weld bead protruding into the tube’s inside or outside surface will wreak havoc on the mandrel, pressure die, and wiper die.
Regarding the wiper die, its position is critical (see Figure 10). The die should be angled slightly (a little off parallel with the tube) so that its end contacts the tube just before the inside radius tangent point—a transition that’s the workpiece’s weakest point during bending. The condition of the wiper die’s contact point is also critical. It should be sharp to the touch. The wiper die can wear over time, so for some jobs, it is good practice to keep a spare wiper die available.
Certain tubes, especially those with thin walls, require a series of balls that can flex on the end of the mandrel, supporting the tube ID in the bend itself. The positioning of those balls matters during machine setup. Normally, you should place a mandrel so that the series of balls start at the bend’s beginning tangent point; you then move the mandrel slowly forward until a quality bend is achieved, but not too far—especially for ultrathin-walled tubing. If the mandrel is moved too far forward, some of the balls actually may break off inside the tube during bending (see Figure 11).
A mandrel with articulating balls fits tightly within the tube ID. The clearance between the mandrel shank and tube ID is only about 0.00in.; the clearance between the balls and tube ID may be a little larger, but not by much. Such a tight fit would cause significant friction without the right lubrication.
Nonpetroleum-based synthetic lubricants are becoming more popular. Often supplied as a paste or gel, they can be diluted to whatever consistency the application requires. Generally speaking, heavier-duty bending with thick walls and tight radii requires more concentrated lubrication. Wiper dies also need to be kept properly lubricated at the contact point to prevent premature wear.
Ram bending is one of the oldest, simplest, and least expensive types of tube bending. But it is not as controllable as other processes.
Towel bars and other household and commercial products
Even soft material like copper undergoes some amount of radial growth once the workpiece is unclamped after bending.
The FABRICATOR is North America’s leading magazine for the metal forming and fabricating industry. The magazine delivers the news, technical articles, and case histories that enable fabricators to do their jobs more efficiently. The FABRICATOR has served the industry since 1971.
Number of Penetrations to Seal
Link-Seal comes in two general hardware materials: carbon steel and stainless steel. As you can imagine, stainless steel is a more expensive option, but it also will stand up to more water exposure, etc. Usually our sales team recommends stainless steel if you are working with an outdoors penetration or if the penetration will be exposed to liquids. For applications where these resistances are not an issue carbon steel should work fine.
Once you have all this information together you should feel confident in the type, size, and number of links you need to complete your job. Have these specs written down before you speak to a salesperson. It’s always easiest if customers have their information readily available.
If you’re ready to buy, check out our Link-Seal page and get a quote on your modular seal needs today.
Seton has an amazing supply and selection of top-quality Pipe Markers and Valve Tags for your company to use in various applications. Pipe markers are attached to or wrapped around the surface of pipes throughout buildings, marinas, etc. Valve Tags are used in the same way, as they are attached to valves and around pipes in many different applications. What is the purpose of utilizing a valve tag or pipe marker on pipework or valves? These items are used to identify the specific use, function or content of a pipe. Various liquids and gasses are pumped through pipes for various destinations within a plant or facility, It is important for the safety of workers to know the exact contents of pipes. At Seton, you can choose from many types of pipe markers and valve tags for substances like ammonia, oxygen, water, hazardous gasses, hot water and much more. Pipe Markers and valve tags can be customized. Valve tags come in brass, stainless steel, aluminum and plastic.
Portland cement grout provides electrochemical protection. When steel is encased in a highly alkaline environment like grout, with high pH between 12.and 13.5, the surfaces of the steel are passivated—in other words, it prevents the steel from oxidizing. It is vital that proper procedures, including mix ratio, are followed. Contractors who try to save money by reducing the amount of Portland cement in the grout will lessen the alkalinity of the mix, which could cause corrosion in the joints a few decades after the pipeline is in the ground.
Mix the grout using one part ASTM C150 Type or Type Portland cement to not more than three parts clean sand with sufficient water to achieve a pourable consistency. The grout should look and pour like a thick cream. If it is too thick, it will not flow around the joint; if it is too thin, it may leak out of the diaper.
Concrete pressure pipe comes with accompanying diapers for joint installation. The two-ply diapers consist of a Typar synthetic fabric layer with a ¼-in. closed-cell foam lining, which provides an additional layer of protection. It is important that the diaper be carefully placed against the exterior surface of the pipe to ensure that it is flush, with no gaps or gathers. The diaper must be centered on the joint.
A pair of 5/8-in.-wide steel bands sewn into each edge are used to secure the diaper to the pipe exterior. The installer uses a stretching tool (normally part of the installation kit) to tighten the steel bands. Once the bands are pulled tight, a steel clip is crimped around the band ends to hold them in position. If the bands are not tight enough, they may slip or the diaper might leak.
For larger-diameter pipe, placing the grout in several lifts is helpful. The grout is allowed to take an initial set before subsequent lifts are added.
Once the diaper is full and wet grout is puddling at the gap at the top, apply a stiffer mix (perhaps the consistency of wet brick mortar) over the joint. Ensure that all metal joint components have at least in. of coverage. Then fold the diaper flap over the gap and allow the grout to cure.
Backfilling operations can begin immediately after the diaper has been filled. When placing backfill around the filled diapers, take care to avoid damage to or displacement of the diapers.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your pipe clamps wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP3 of pipe clamps
- №1 — Cable Clamp
- №2 — CO RODE 8-29mm Key-Type Adjustable Hose Clamp
- №3 — Dernord Sanitary Male Threaded Pipe Fitting to TRI CLAMP